How to (not) spray-paint....?

[level42]

Friends....

I've been looking for some info about spray-painting (can) and I stumbled on some videos on youtube which made me wonder about the way _I_ do my (can) spray-painting....

I based my method on what I've seen from a professional car spray painter. He told me the following:

- before spraying, aim the gun right _next_ to the object BEFORE starting to spray
- start the spraying and _then_ begin to move your arm. While moving your arm do NOT change the angle of your wrist (I spray slightly angled, not straight on, the angle is _away_ from the direction I move my arm in)
- keep the speed of the movement of your arm constant
- keep the distance of your hand to the object the same at all time
- when you reach the end of the object _continue_ to move until slightly _passed_ the object and stop spray.
- then change the angle of your wrist to the other side and move back like the first steps
- "overlap" the "stripes" you make over larger objects
- don't try to cover the entire piece in one go. It's better to add a couple of layers with some time in between.

Now.....with that in mind, and having used this method reasonably successfully  I saw several videos where "pro's" spray paint and do EVERYTHING opposite of what I told before.
They aim the can at the object, start spraying (which IMHO means a "blob" on your object) and then stop very quickly again (which means another uneven "blob" coming out of the can).

Here's a video that shows that method:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VnIZ_wABrJU

In effect they do small puffs of spray randomly all over the object.
To me it goes against everything I thought was right with spray painting....

So....what do you guys think ? Am I wrong because I used this method which is meant for professional spray painting equipment and do I have to use that other way for can spray painting ?

What do you guys do ?

[Etienne MacGyver]

I do exactely what you describe.

The only thing i sometimes do is move in a circular motion, but i do stop and start "outside" the object

I have puffed by accident like your second method, which in my case many times resulted in "runners".

So i would stick to the method you have learned, its the same what i have learned bittd on the "LTS" or "ambachtschool", dont know the translation in english..

[ckong]

I based my method on what I've seen from a professional car spray painter. He told me the following:

- before spraying, aim the gun right _next_ to the object BEFORE starting to spray
- start the spraying and _then_ begin to move your arm. While moving your arm do NOT change the angle of your wrist (I spray slightly angled, not straight on, the angle is _away_ from the direction I move my arm in)
- keep the speed of the movement of your arm constant
- keep the distance of your hand to the object the same at all time
- when you reach the end of the object _continue_ to move until slightly _passed_ the object and stop spray.
- then change the angle of your wrist to the other side and move back like the first steps
- "overlap" the "stripes" you make over larger objects
- don't try to cover the entire piece in one go. It's better to add a couple of layers with some time in between.


What do you guys do ?

This is the EXACT same instructions that a realtive of mine, a professional carpainter told me how it should be done. I always do it like that, never fails. Although it is sometimes difficult to resist another layer in the same go. Just be patient and do 4 or 5 layers with intervals in which the paint can dry. Just as the above instruction.

[level42]

Thanks ! Thought I was going nuts

About spray paint cans.....I found this and I want:

http://www.rustoleumspraypaint.com/product/metallic-spray-paint/



(The chrome version). Looks great for coin door parts like the coin-inserts on Midway coin doors and the mounting hardware.

Found it online for sale here, not very cheap but I only need to do small parts so it'll last....

http://www.verfwebwinkel.nl/rust-oleum-painter-touch-metallic.html?id=4093654

[Sonic 1992]

Most Important:

Don't buy the cheap shit spray paint.  Lessons learned here! 

The cheap stuff runs and sprays unevenly!

Buy the quality name brand paint. 

[Etienne MacGyver]

I think the rustoleum is a much higher grade as the silver paint i used from the action, but i am curious on how it turns out.

the silversprays i have used in the past all where a bit "powdery" (dont know how to describe)  but after drying and harding, it still smudged when i rubbed it with my thumb resulting in a silver thumb.

maybe this is better, but i have had this experience, and not only with the "action" cans..

so i am curious if this is rock solid, and i need that stuff then too !

although the silver i have used worked fine on parts i used it for, since i never touched it after..

[level42]

LOL, I had exactly the same experience (both in look and the stuff staying smudgy) with the "silver" from action. I'll show some pics when I return home.

That Online store I pointed to is in Roosendaal and they do offer pick up service

[level42]

Most Important:

Don't buy the cheap shit spray paint.  Lessons learned here! 

The cheap stuff runs and sprays unevenly!

Buy the quality name brand paint. 

I tend to agree with you, although this was done with cheap paint and looks pretty damn good, better in real life than on the pics:

https://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=3056.msg81352#msg81352

[level42]

I think the rustoleum is a much higher grade as the silver paint i used from the action, but i am curious on how it turns out.

the silversprays i have used in the past all where a bit "powdery" (dont know how to describe)  but after drying and harding, it still smudged when i rubbed it with my thumb resulting in a silver thumb.

Promised picture. Do I need to point out which is the original ?

The structure on the right one comes because I (stupidly) left them on the coin door when they sand-blasted it. Following that they also sprayed the primer layer on them...

So I thought I'd give the silver paint from Action a try (had it anyway).

Fail.

[Etienne MacGyver]

yeah that looks ghetto, you need that tumbler....

[level42]

Already got it......but I'm not too crazy about the results. It's not a sanding device....it's a polishing device, it won't remove any rust f.i.

[Q*ris]

FYI:
I'm no expert but I always used the same method you described (starting away from the part, keep moving and so on), worked well for me.

I had good results with rustoleum satin:


I recommend to stay away from that cheapest brand:


I heard good things about that more expensive brand, but never tried it myself:


Rustoleum metal… I had that can in my hand at least 5 times and always hesistated and finally put it back.
Anyway, just wanted to point out that it seems to be much cheaper here in Belgium… I can bring you some André, if you need more  :

[Laszo]

LOL, I had exactly the same experience (both in look and the stuff staying smudgy) with the "silver" from action. I'll show some pics when I return home.

That Online store I pointed to is in Roosendaal and they do offer pick up service

These gold and silver paints always smudge. They need a clear finish. But whatever the can cab is showing it will never be like real chrome.... I see it as a scam.

[Laszo]

Already got it......but I'm not too crazy about the results. It's not a sanding device....it's a polishing device, it won't remove any rust f.i.

What medium are you using? Corn and Walnut are not hard enough to remove rust. You could try grid that is used in aquariums in combination with a derusting flued... Not to much flued because the pan is not waterproof.

[level42]

I see it as a scam.

No no no, it's a compromise....that is something completely different !

AAAAARGGHGGHGHHGHH Chris, WHERE IS THAT PLACE ?? That is a whole lot cheaper and you can grap'm from the rack !!!

Rust-oleum is pretty hard to find/crazy expensive here. I _LOVE_ the quality but the "hard hat" paints are about 18 euro which is nuts even though you do get more paint in the can than cheaper brands. Also, the hard-hat black I've used in the past gives a bit of a "grey" impression, not deep black. That Painter's touch black looks better already !

I must say I haven't checked my local DIY stores yet though...but Karwei had the gold stuff listed at 11,95, which once again shows we get screwed in Holland with prices because Belgium even has higher VAT......

Thanks for that top Leo, you I really think I need a (much) more aggressive medium. The walnut stuff worked great for Mark's gun cases though, they shine like a mirror !

I'm not too crazy about Motip....I liked Rust-oleum better.

I also have "hamerslag" from Rust-oleum and although the quality and looks are great I don't like it. It is _not_ what was on those metal parts on cabs....