Outrun deluxe sitdown

[Reboot]

Next, i had to find the wire that give the dc elec. motor its juice, this i did by just randomly loose wires on the working cab. After it stopt moving, i know i had the right wire (The red and blue with brown molex plug, circled red on the picture. The green circled plug is the powerplug which gives the psu its juice).



Measure it if it still is around 85V which the psu gives out.



It red also 85,1 V, good. But where does the wire go to? Not directly to the dc motor as i thought. Can't follow the wire because it goes under the base to somewhere at the front where the game pcb is.

Than i decided to take a look from the other side, the wire that comes from the dc motor.



Strange readings, at one point it measures briefly 80 V going down to zero and later readings it only red zero on both cabs, so it must be normal behavor???
(Only gives voltage at pcb command?)



I didn't get it/understand it, so here i was again at the starting point, what is the culprit. Not the psu it seems and not the wires, so it must be the dc motor itself.

Damn a costly thing if it indeed is the motor. Looked on internet to find a replacement nearby. could'n find one.

[Reboot]

Than i thought of something the seller said to me when i asked him how he took care of the cabs. Just some greasing now and then and sometimes change the brush in the dc motor!




Red the manual on howto take out the brush. Did that asap on mine and behold one of the brushes was broken, at least the spring of it.

broken one
good one

Because i never had seen a brush i didn't know what i had to think of that. The rectangle part were both in 'good' shape, not worn down and the copper string wasn't broken either.



So the next day i went to my nearest hardware store and luckily they carry the brushes, just 5 euro for 2 pieces. Went home to replace them asap and
YES, Yes, it is alive again!  

because a nice girl is a hole lot prettier looking than me doing that   

[DarthNuno]

 

[Etienne MacGyver]

Succes !

A set of those brushes did save me buying a new washing machine a few weeks ago, when they reach a certain wearpoint, they disconnect the power and the motor looks dead.

actually that is good, because other wise the worn brushes would damage that rotor part under them

[Reboot]

So what to do when your motion cabinet isn't moving (easy and cheap fixes):

- check fuses
- check the psu
- check the wires
- check the brushes

I'm very happy! Wouldn't know what else to do if that last thing wasn't the answer.

So now that that is fixed onto the next problem.
The color blue. Everything that is normally red onscreen, is blue, so hopefully it's just a wrongly put connector at either the pcb side or the monitor side... (what else could cause this??)




Just noticed it now, the color next to green, ligth green/blue and yellow are also changed

[Nic-fryer]

I know it's wrong but I like the blue 

[Reboot]

Got a package from US  

Yes, finally the repro gears arrived (took a month to arrive) with some missing parts for the steering unit of cab 1
and off course an extra bill of around 34 euro's





 

[Reboot]

Tried to assemble the steering unit with the parts from TravisH and his video. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lHkAdpb3e5c)

how it was before

how it is now, populated

some random pictures I took while assembling

that small rectangle is called a "key"












Found out I still miss some parts (the numbers are the sequence how to assemble the steering shaft where the B-gear sit)



1,4 and 8 are missing (called washers or in dutch ringen). Emailed Travis and superrr, he has them also and will give them to Stuart, who will ship them with the 2nd package with gear kits. Very nice guys  

Because I can't wait another month I looked for the washers locally. Found some substitute, not the same but usable. (will change them as soon as the 2nd package arrives).

The video was a great help in assembling. Got it to work but.... you guest right, another problem arose.  

Because the previous owner missed a B-gear he made the steering unit working by putting a red rubber between the 2 shaft.
By turning the steering shaft (B-gear) the big A-gear shaft turned so the steering in the game worked. But because when you turn a gear clockwise the other connected gear will turn anti-clockwise. But the rubber will turn both shaft the same way, both clockwise or anti-clockwise.
To overcome this problem the previous owner had cut the wires for left turn and right turn and twisted them.






By reversing this mod now that there is a B-gear again, the steering is good again. Turning right will turn the car in the game to the right.
Just need to buy some shrinkable tubing to make nice safe connected wires again.
Luckily another problem easily solved.

[Reboot]

My gear from cab 1 was missing parts and luckily Travis had those also.
But his small spring was also broken. So I went to the nearby hardware store looking for washers and a spring. When I showed them the spring, they searched the stockroom and hurray they had them!

So the gear is fixed 

Some random picture of the gear








Still the things to do:

- fixing color fault on cab 2
- find some light bulb (12V 1.2W) for the speed-o-meter dashboard
- soldering 1 light bulb holder, which is broken in half
- maybe paint the chairs (what are the original colors? You can't see it on the flyer)
   I have seen grey, black (mine) and blue ones.

Which members also have an outrun dlx sitdown? What colors are your chairs?
How do you paint the chairs or the body of the car? (it's made from fibre glas?),
which color red? (ferrari red, is that a color?)

[Etienne MacGyver]

Nice details !

glad you figured out what the previous owner did to "fix" his repair by twisting the wires.

it works ofcourse, but the Original setup is restored now !  Great !

As for the color problem, did you tried swapping the boardset with the other cabinet ?

that way you may narrow the problem down to the monitor or the boardset.

[Reboot]

Did a close look today at the monitor cable for the color problem. Here are the pictures



Is this the culprit? Cut wires which are put together by tape





But it is not the color wires i expected to be twisted (thought red and blue wires to be twisted),
white goes to black to the green plug and blue/white goes to white to the green plug.
 


And the other end of the wires which goes in the pcb



The plug at the monitor (a Hantarex Polo 25") side



Does the sticker tell which wires goes where in the plug? If so then the red and blue wires are indeed put in the wrong hole of the plug.
And the cut wires are not the culprit.

What does the letters stand for?

H.S.= horizontal sync?
Comp= ?
V.S.= vertical sync?
Gnd = ground?
B.= blue?
G.= green?
R.= red?

[level42]

You guessed all of them right and Comp means composite sync (that is H and V-sync combined.

[Etienne MacGyver]

and indeed the R & B are in the wrong position, so that explanes the blue Ferrari 

[Reboot]

You guessed all of them right and Comp means composite sync (that is H and V-sync combined.

and indeed the R & B are in the wrong position, so that explanes the blue Ferrari 

Thanks for clearing that up. So how to get those wires out off the plug easy without a Molex" pin extractor (thanks for the buy tip Level42  )



Will try it this weekend and if it doesn't go easy i'll wait for the extractor to arrive.

Oh and made a mistake with the pinout drawing, next picture is the right one. 2nd pinhole (= V.S.) isn't used.

[level42]

That extractor won't work on that connector !!! That is a totally different type of connector which uses rectangular pins !

However you can easily click them out using a very small (watch repair) screwdriver. Just push down the metal "latch" of the pin and carefully pull the wire. If there is resistance don't force it, the latch is still locked and you have to do better to unlatch it....