the most incredible part is that the board pcb didnt corrupt or got rusty and ran right away
Not really... it's made by Namco, the best arcade game company! 
As has been typical with the machine so far, almost every piece has at least one screw rusted in place. The back plastic panel was no different. Unfortunately in these situations it's tricky to use a Dremmel type tool as the last thing we want to do is damage the plastic. Luckily the stuck screw on the bottom had enough open space around it that this wasn't an issue. A flat-head type cut was made into the screw and it was STILL incredibly hard to turn and remove!
Inside, I was surprised to see that the asymmetrical-axis motor that generates the "shake" effect was actually mounted in the portion of the seat against your back. That would explain why it's so jarring on the "max hit"!
From here I was able to access the rear of the tee nuts on the wood of the seat structure that hold the plastic side panels to the seat. I applied some lubricant in there to help dislodge some of the rust. It's necessary to remove these panels to gain access to three hefty bolts under the plastic on either side that hold the entire seat to the frame. We need to do this in order to gain access to the "floor" of the main metal structure so that it can be refinished.
The humorous thing is on the top canopy, facing the rear of the machine, the left hand side bolts were rusty while the right side was in good shape. The opposite is true of the seat! 4 screws on the right side plastic are rusted solidly in place. Luckily, the left side came apart with no issues.
I again applied lubricant to the rear of the 3 large bolts to hopefully prevent a bolt from snapping. The bolts were removed pretty easily with a ratchet, albeit "crunchily."
I lubricated the ends of the bolts and ran them back through the nuts to clean up the threading.
I removed the cushion assemblies from the seat in order to give them a good cleaning, and inspect how they were constructed. Unfortunately, one hex bolt (again!) in both the rear and bottom section broke upon removal. The back of the seat reveals the exact same construction methods as the Pole Position seat
Unfortunately, I'll need to come back to the remaining stuck screws on the side another day. Two are in a tight plastic channel with no room for error. Any ideas what the best way to approach this is? I'm thinking drilling through the head of the screw, taking time making sure not to heat up the head in the process.
I did remove the rusty speaker grille (with, you guessed it, one rusted screw!!) from the rear which will need to be repainted. Upon closer inspection, only one of the rear speakers actually works! New set of speakers all around then
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Ah yes, and I forgot my camera today. Boring text for now
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