Logi Tec Space Invader (salvation)

[Laszo]

 @level42, yep I took the transformer apart, front and back plate and the supports. This way the spraypaint jobs looks cleaner when you put it together again. Tonight I will post some more pics, including serious tube cleaning 

[Laszo]

Did some serious CRT window washing, used Dasty (de-creaser) and hot water, let it dry in the sun .

[Laszo]

Fresh layer of paint for the CRT holding plate:

[Laszo]

Last night had time to reassemble the coin door including a new 50 euro cent coin plate and a new lock.

Sweet.

 

[level42]

Wow, the back coating survived the Dasty ? I know it's pretty aggressive stuff...

[Laszo]

Wow, the back coating survived the Dasty ? I know it's pretty aggressive stuff...

I hope so, it stills looks ok and without the greasy dust mess, but we will see. How do others clean crt's?

[Etienne MacGyver]

I always use alcohol for the front, and the back i am always affraid to touch because i don't want to damage the aquadag..

The front is basicly just thick glass..

[level42]

I always use alcohol for the front, and the back i am always affraid to touch because i don't want to damage the aquadag..

No need. I have been scared to touch the aquadag for ages as well but since I cleaned the HD tube I was over it. I used some water and a small sponge, no chemicals. Did it again on the G05-802 and no problems at all.

[Laszo]

I always use alcohol for the front, and the back i am always affraid to touch because i don't want to damage the aquadag..

No need. I have been scared to touch the aquadag for ages as well but since I cleaned the HD tube I was over it. I used some water and a small sponge, no chemicals. Did it again on the G05-802 and no problems at all.

I will let you guys know when (if) I get it running. What I like about Dasty is that you just spray it on and the dirt, grease and nicotine comes right of. I use a soft brush and then plenty of hot water. I also use the same procedure for pcb's but those go in a alcohol bath after the hot water and are then blown dry. If the aquadag is damaged then i believe you can repair it... It is just paint, isn't it?

[level42]

Yup I use Dasty too, it's also dirt cheap

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=62784.msg624249#msg624249

But you have to use it with care.

Yes aquadag can be repaired or you can make an entire new one:
https://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=3095.msg45258#msg45258

[Laszo]

Little update, two days ago I got mail from China. Look at that for 8 Euro. One nice box with two little 7089's. One two replace the faulty one and one spare. I can not believe that they can orderpick, do the paperwork and airmail 2 ic's. I  wonder who's got a problem them or we 

[Laszo]

so I did replace the faulty 7089 and when on it did the 555 also because I did not like what I saw on the scope. ......... Yes

[level42]

 

[Laszo]

So with a working power pcb it was time to setup the lab. I must say I was afraid that the game pcb was completely death. (the faulty 7089 gave a 10.8 volt DC feed directly to the game pcb). But with the power on and the scope in hand I found some life. There is also a muffled sound and I get some logic on some IC's. On the other hand a also get a lot of readings that look weird to me 

QUESTION: How can I check the video out signal without using the original monitor.

QUESTION 2: I don't have a schematic for my PCB but I know there are Taito and Midway schematics, did anyone ever compare these? I'm interested if they are compatible.

THE LAB 

[level42]

I don't know the answer for Q2, but for Q1 you can simply get a TV (or f.i. a Commodore 1084 monitor) with a composite video input (yellow RCA jack) and connect the video out to the center pin and GND to the edge.