Pole Position plays blind

[gyruss]

So i got this pole position standing in my kitchen, very cool but it isn't working.   When i turn the cab on i can hear the start-up sound (namco explosion and 3 beeps), it's possible to coin up the game (with button next to the self-test switch) and start a race. The break, gas and steering wheel all seem to be working great and the red light on the pcb is on but there is nothing on the screen.   The cab has definitely been worked on before, this is what i know:

1. They replaced the monitor with a hantarex, i had a (supposedly) working one laying around so i decided to swap them, with no results, you can hear a very light crackle (only with the second monitor) but there is nothing on the screen.

2. The two wires/cable bundles (sorry, don't know what the correct name is) that are supposed to be connected to the monitor have been hacked, they did a shitty job and one wire is loose, tried to reconnect it with no results.

3. The previous owners bypassed the F3 fuse, they simply connected the 2 wires together with no fuse in between.

4. The pcb edge connector is removed and everything is solders directly to the pcb.

5. The wires that are connected to the coin up mechanism also seem to be modified.

So what's the first stap to take? Keep in mind i'm a total noob so please have some patience.  

Here are some pictures to make things a bit clearer:

The hacked wires that are supposed to connect the monitor


As you can see the ground isn't connected at all (this one is also for the monitor)


The bypassed fuse wire


The fuse holder

[Superully]

pieter, do you have neckglow on any of the monitors? can you show us as picture of the connector which attaches to the monitor chassis?

[Etienne MacGyver]

I feel a great urge to visit you with my desolderstation, solderstation and a new edge connector when you got it working to fix that edge connector issue.
sure its working flawless with this fix, but it hurts my brain even thinking about that the wires are soldered directly to the board.



Clickpick to go to that topic..

Looks like they bypassed F3 because the mountpoint has broken off..

as for the rest, seeing the hacking they did, dont take this the wrong way, but i would invite etienne, andre, and robin for a cup of coffee to tackle thisone ! hahaha

[level42]

I actually would let the soldered wires on the PCB as they are....You may very well recreate the contact problems and heating again if you now make a connector. As long as it works....

First fix the other things...

[gyruss]

pieter, do you have neckglow on any of the monitors? can you show us as picture of the connector which attaches to the monitor chassis?

There is no neckglow at all! This are the connectors to which they soldered the original harness:

I feel a great urge to visit you with my desolderstation, solderstation and a new edge connector when you got it working to fix that edge connector issue.
sure its working flawless with this fix, but it hurts my brain even thinking about that the wires are soldered directly to the board.

Looks like they bypassed F3 because the mountpoint has broken off..

as for the rest, seeing the hacking they did, dont take this the wrong way, but i would invite etienne, andre, and robin for a cup of coffee to tackle thisone ! hahaha

It isn't the most elegant solution but it seems to be working atm so i'll just leave it this way (for now). Of course all you guys are welcome whenever you want but i really would like to get it running asap...

When i visited Andre this weekend he told me the monitor probally isn't getting any current. He explained me how to measure it but stupidly i forgot, do you guy's mind explaining this to me again?  

 

[Etienne MacGyver]

I see your point Andre, and thinking about it, i forgot that it was a pole position (which have lots of trouble due to bad edge connector connections)
i agree with you, leave the board as is.. (although a good edge connector will look better.. )

Monitor plugs look like Hanta to me
anyway, you got two conectors there going to the monitor:

(left on the pic ) yellow-orange-red-brown, that is the power lead
(right in the pic) white-yellow-black-red-green-blue, that is the signal lead (white hor sync, yellow vert sync, black is ground, and RGB is...  well... RGB  

so there must be current on the "left" plug.

lets see what the hanta manual says..

be right back..

[Etienne MacGyver]

I am Back  

looks like you need both 220 and 128 volts on this connector according to the manual.
My guess is that the 220 volts part is for the degauss option, since that does not run through the isolation transformer.

128 volts AC between the red and brown lead, and 220 volts AC between orange and yellow.

so measure those pins carefully (dont touch the metal of the wires  )

[gyruss]

Thanks!

I measured them both: 223 and 129 volts...

Edit: don't know if this has anything to do with it but the sticker on the monitor says this, 120V?:

[Etienne MacGyver]

Looks like your power is ok then..

Power is present, no neckglow...
Dead monitor maybe ?

Lets see..., i can drop a semi working Hanta 900 in the car and pass by friday after work if you like.
I will be working in the neighbourhood of "huizen, laren & blaricum" this friday.

[level42]

Stick to Etiennes story, that label is on the metal side part of the monitor right ?

I bet they put the tube and chassis from the Hantarex into the original frame.

make a "total" shot of the monitor so we can see...

Those voltages are OK so there has to be a problem with the monitor, actually both, if you dont get neckglow...

[Etienne MacGyver]

Was thinking the same, that metal does not look like hanta to me 

[gyruss]

Looks like your power is ok then..

Power is present, no neckglow...
Dead monitor maybe ?

Lets see..., i can drop a semi working Hanta 900 in the car and pass by friday after work if you like.
I will be working in the neighbourhood of "huizen, laren & blaricum" this friday.

That would be great Etienne!! 

Stick to Etiennes story, that label is on the metal side part of the monitor right ?

I bet they put the tube and chassis from the Hantarex into the original frame.

make a "total" shot of the monitor so we can see...

Those voltages are OK so there has to be a problem with the monitor, actually both, if you dont get neckglow...

I tried them both for the second time, the 'original monitor' seems to be totally dead, when i connect the spare one i can hear some electricity running through it but no neck glow.  Here's a picture from the monitor with the 120volt sticker.

[Etienne MacGyver]

Like andre says, and i assumed: its a hanta 900 transplanted into the original cage.  

is the other also a hanta 900 ?
if so, we can at least check where the problem lies by connecting my working chassis to the tubes..

did you swap chassis and test then ?

Could be you got one broken tube and one broken chassis..
in that case you maybe can make one working of the two..

[gyruss]

Yes, it's the same monitor but indeed in a different frame/cage.

[Etienne MacGyver]

I bet it looks like this :



Thats how a MTC900 looks like in its original setup