Need a bit of help with caps

[Rorsach]

I've just bought a nice Neo Geo woody with a screen that won't turn on. After a bit of digging i find out that it has most likely blown a couple of caps on the chassis (Kortek KTN-F20):




Is it possible to (safely) replace these myself and where can i get them?

According to the manual they're
1 x 390µf 400V Electrolytic (the big black one)(On the board now is a 330 µf 400V)
1 x 100µf 160V Electrolytic (at the right of the first pic)

Thanks.

[Etienne MacGyver]

Sure you can
wait a bit after the power is disconnected to let a possible charge drain out

available in almost every electrical components store

If youre not comfortable doing it yourself, i live close to you, have a desolder iron, and a component shop also close to my place  

Dont know if this will fix your problems though, but its worth a shot

[Rorsach]

Now all i need to do is find a local electronics components store (which i don't think we have here in Roosendaal).

  

I think i'll take you up on that offer.

[level42]

Hah, you dont need an ESR meter to know that those are goners !!! Nice bulbs

If you dont have an ESR meter, replace all caps...probably a shitty quality cap brand....

[Rorsach]

The big one is a SamYoung, not the best of brands, or so i have read.

Any idea what a complete capkit would set me back (the small caps are peanuts, but what would the big cap cost?)

[Etienne MacGyver]

The big cap is around 6 € at RS

A panasonic 390uF 400V 105deg Cap:

http://nl.rs-online.com/web/p/aluminium/0575488/

I did a capkit for Gyruss's DK and it was around 15€ total material costs.

Dont know if you are comming in Breda sometimes, but close to my place there is http://www.electra-breda.nl/

[Rorsach]

Aaaah, on the Haagdijk  

I used to study in Breda and also had a part-time job at the comicbook store in the Torenpassage, Franka.

Etienne: Just let me know when you've got a bit of time and i'll pop over.

[level42]

SamYoung......yeah sounds like quality

Funny about 25 years ago I had a holiday job at Correct (large audio & TV store) in Rotterdam and CD players were still pretty new and expensive. A new brand of CD player was introduced to sell in the store. It was quite a bit cheaper than the regular brands. It was a.....Samsung. We thought that name sounded like total crap then and didnt trust the thing for a cent...we opened one and sighed before rapidly closing it again...

Within a week the first complainers returned, showing CDs which had nice vinyl-record like grooves on them created by the Samsungs !

We thought that brand would soon disappear because of this......man were we wrong. I still dont own any of their stuff though.....

Its funny that crap China companies now try to name their product after Samsung...

Anyway, get a decent brand, Nichicon, Panasonic....something like that.

[Etienne MacGyver]

in general i am home every night, and in the week-ends

depending on the amount of caps to replace it varies in time
I think the full capkit on gyruss monitor inlcuding taking it from the cab, placing it back in and have pizza, we spend 3 hours orso.

maybe its better you first collect the replacement parts and remove the chassis from the monitor, and then let me know what day / time you can drive by.

replacing a few caps on a board only takes not so much time

[PaulSwan]

It might be worth while to do a quick sanity check with a meter and verify that the voltages are reasonable before fitting the new caps - there is the possibility that they blew because something else failed (like the regulator) and the voltage ended up high.
Paul.

[Rorsach]

It might be worth while to do a quick sanity check with a meter and verify that the voltages are reasonable before fitting the new caps - there is the possibility that they blew because something else failed (like the regulator) and the voltage ended up high.
Paul.

I measured the voltage coming from the powersupply and that was 234 volts. Any other places i should/could measure? I'm a bit hesitant to go probing around with my multimeter on good luck.

[PaulSwan]

The monitor input supply is *usually* in the 100V -> 120V range from an isolation transformer depending on the monitor but I not familair with this specific monitor to confirm.

I'd check the voltage across the two caps your planning on replacing. It should be DC (no AC) assuming there is any voltage there at all (i.e. the chassis is not plain dead).

Paul.

[level42]

Hey Rorsach, maybe you can help me with this :    https://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=3413.0

They looks close enough...