The Star Wars (Atari) repair and maintenance topic

[Belike]

I hope this topic will be useful for most of us, let it be a general SW repair, restoration and maintenance topic, you can share all your experiences and knowledge here.
Let me start with my first issue, 2 triggers on the left side of the controller didn't work.
Somehow I had a feeling, that is not a microswitch problem and took a closer look.
Tried to overrun the switches with an extra cable, but still didn't work, which means there is a cut wire somewhere.
Used my multimeter's continuity function to investigate the matching cable from pcb, no beep.

Within a minute I found the problem, it was a loose cable from the molex (bad pic)

Reconnected it and it works like a charm.
Unfortunately on the 2nd machine this trick didn't work, I will have to replace some switches there.

[Belike]

Issue number 2:
As Archer stated on this pic, the right 3rd of the monitor is dead, sometimes there are some light vectors, but most of the time there is nothing could be seen.

It is not a gameboard related problem, I tried it out with another pcb, nothing changed.
I can make some more pics or video if needed.
Any ideas?

[level42]

Regretfully I know nothing about SW or color vectors....but I do wish you good luck !

[level42]

Seriously, well done on the first issue, most problems are simple

I think I have a bunch of microswitches -somewhere- that -might- fit....Ill send some as soon as I find them..

That monitor problem is weird.... really weird....
You might want to start with installing a LV2000. light.....

http://www.vector-repair.com/

Alternatively, because you have two same set-ups you could so comparison measurements. It seems like the horizontal deflection voltage is not getting to its full voltage, but then why only one side ??

[Belike]

Yeah, really weird problem.
I checked the  manual of that LV2000, I' not sure I will be able to install it, but who dares wins.
About those switches, thanks to Steve (Ataritoobin), they are on the way from the states.
Anyway, thanks André!

[level42]

Installing an LV2000 is much easier than it looks. The instructions are pretty clear.

You just have to desolder (hey, nice job for your new toy !) a number of parts in the LV area. Then the LV2000 has a couple of legs (IIRC 4) that will go into 4 existing (left over) holes and you solder the pins and clip 'm. That's it.

[Belike]

Ok, I will also have to order some other stuff from arcadeshop.com, it is also available there for the same price.
I will also give it a try on KLOV, maybe somebody already had the same problem from there.

[level42]

Yeah always good to try...largest user base there

[Belike]

In test mode:
I made these pics in dark, the lines are not so thick, just my hands were shaky.
During the main theme, the are some light letters could be seen on that area.

[level42]

So weird....on the "diamond" screen the right edge seems to be cut of in a "sings" wave, but on the hash screen it is a straight line....

Did you post these on KLOV yet ?

[Belike]

So weird....on the "diamond" screen the right edge seems to be cut of in a "sings" wave, but on the hash screen it is a straight line....

Did you post these on KLOV yet ?

Yeah, right here.
In the meantime a realized, that the LV 2000 kit was already installed.



As you can see, there are some convergence strips also on the tube, seems like it was already tried to repair.

[level42]

Nah, those strips are often already installed at the factory. The reason is that the production tolerances simply didnt allow to have a perfect convergence wothout them.

Well...no LV needed .....

[Belike]

Some vector expert guys on klov advised me to wiggle some connectors on the deflection board and turn the yoke 180 degrees.
I tried to wiggle that plug first, nothing happened.
Switched off the machine, disconnected that plug, cleaned the F700 fuse under it and when I turned it on again, there was just a vertical thin green line in the middle of the monitor for 10 sec, than nothing.
The game plays, but totally blind.
At this point I swapped the deflection board from my 2nd SW and it worked perfect, so it seems like the tube and yoke are ok, there is something with the deflection pcb.
I checked all the fuses (they were all ok) and tried the faulty pcb in the other SW, it indicated the same problem, thin green line for 10 sec, than nothing.
I measured the caps, they are also ok.
Any further ideas?
Thanks in advance.

[Muerto]

Buy a new deflection pcb....

[level42]

Yes I have further ideas.

First let me tell you that I do not like Wells Gardner. Everything I have seen from them is a POS so far. (6100s and K5515).

The build and design quality is about the same of that of US cars in the same period of time.....

Anyway, there is always hope !!

One of the things the 6100 is known for is having poor solderings at those connectors. Now, mind you, just renewing them will not always work !!
Sometimes there is a crack between the solder island and the track that is barely or not visible !

Anyway, remove the deflection board (remember where the conncetors go !!!) and get working with your desoldeing and soldering station !

Remove the old solder, then make a new soldering. Work pin by pin so the header pins dont fall out.
While you are ar it, renew rhe solderings of all big resistors.

Then try again and also again wiggle the connectors to see if there are hair cracks like I mentioned.
If picture is OK and stays Ok while jiggeling you are lucky. If not, its time to get out the DVM and measure all the tracks running from those connectors....