Trying to restore a Zaccaria Crazy Kong Cabinet

[Etienne MacGyver]

Thinking about the pic you mentioned,

could you make a straight shot of the complete door, with also the black frame ?

then i can use that for my piggybank 

Thanks !

[solidsnake]

yea sure i can etienne
i wil take some pics of the complete door and wil send them too you 
this afternoon

[Etienne MacGyver]

Thanks, Super ! 

[solidsnake]

Sinds i got most of the stuff now,think its time to make the cab empty.
so i can sand the front,filler it,and paint it.
Hope me paintshop can make the same color.
One thing i wonder ,i already lookt at belike his cabs,and i saw that the cabs have diffrent colors on the front.
Are does colors random for each cab,or did evry game had its own colors.
The cab is standing in me livingroom,and the front is a brown color,i prevere to make it black,but i dont got a cleu wat the original color was for a CK front.
does anyone know.
i olso gona take the monitor out of the cab.
and im a little bit affraid of that.
if i discharge the monitor,with a screw driver and a wire to ground,is that the way to do it , and how save is it,cos i understand that there is a lot of power on it.
and if i discharge it,will al the power be of the monitor or are there stil some parts that hold power,just wana make sure cos i dont like shocks
if the monitor is out i probly gona give it a new cap kitt too,but i wil come back on that part later on.
and about the filler part,wat is good stuf to use for that,i always workt with metal so the wood thing is new for me

[Etienne MacGyver]

As far as i know there is only 2 colors on the "mini zacc" (which is the one on my avatar)
The full uprights are the ones on belike's pictures

the mini's used brown for all, except for frogger, there they used blue..



for monitor discharging:

https://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=608.0

For the woodfiller, then you need to ask "master filler Ully"  
its something 2 components bondo or something

Hope me paintshop can make the same color.

Let us know what the colorcode is, at eurocade, Ully will bring his colorscanner, so i am curious what the two results say.

by the way, will you be attending Eurocade ?

[solidsnake]

oke it stays brown then
thnx for clearing that out etienne

about discharging i think i make the same stick as darthnuno
just to be safe.

i wil post the colorcode here if i get one.

For the woodfiller, then you need to ask "master filler Ully" 
its something 2 components bondo or something

yea i have seen his woodworking skils in a few topics verry nice work
but the name bondo doesnt say anything to me,or maybe we cal it diffrent here.
gona drive to the shop in a min maybe they know wat it is.

by the way, will you be attending Eurocade ?

i love 2 but i need 2 work that day,and i already took to much holidays this year

wel of to the shop to get some stuff

[solidsnake]

time to discharge the monitor and take it out
my new tool

scared to do this but need to be done
and of course wen i do it it goes wrong
i placed the screwdriver under the anode cap,but i touched it and it already came of
i didnt hear a pop so im not sure its discharged
i put the anode cap to ground and stil no pop.
the cab didnt get any power for 2 weeks,is it possible that there wasnt much power on the anode cap.
bit confused wat to do now,cos i didnt expect the anode cap came of that easy

[Superully]

even if the anode cap is off, there might still be power in the monitor. always do the discharge a couple of times and wait in between the individual discharges!

[solidsnake]

oke wil take me time for it and try to discharge the monitor a couple of times.
but i dont hear a plop sound,seen a lot of video's about discharge and always i hear a sound wen they do it .
dont wana get fried on me first project

[level42]

Modern day TV's and monitors (and yes, the 80's monitors are included) discharge themselves within seconds after powering down. The manual discharge is done ONLY to be 100% sure that there is no charge anymore (in case the automatic discharge fails). So, it's perfectly normal to NOT hear a pop when you do it.

Also, if you take out a monitor in one piece (so you are NOT going to disconnect the HV cup from the tube) there is NO need to discharge it.

[solidsnake]

Modern day TV's and monitors (and yes, the 80's monitors are included) discharge themselves within seconds after powering down. The manual discharge is done ONLY to be 100% sure that there is no charge anymore (in case the automatic discharge fails). So, it's perfectly normal to NOT hear a pop when you do it.

that makes me feel a lot better now thnx

Also, if you take out a monitor in one piece (so you are NOT going to disconnect the HV cup from the tube) there is NO need to discharge it.

i was planning to take evrything apart so i can clean evrything.
and sinds its out i was also thinking to do a cap kit on the monitor.
but nice to know you dont have to discharge if you only remove it in one piece

[level42]

As long as you keep your hands off the HV cup there is no need to discharge if you take out the monitor "in one piece".

There are too many wild (untrue) myths about discharging CRT's.

I wish Mythbusters would do an episode on it....

[solidsnake]

I wish Mythbusters would do an episode on it....

i wil send them a e-mail

[Etienne MacGyver]

Totally true, on this monitor (hanta 900) i did not hear a pop and my monitor was of for about 5 seconds when i did it.

so the auto discharge works i assume.

BUT, to be sure, i always stick the screwdriver under the cap, and after removing i put the connector of the cup also again to ground, just to be sure

I see you copied the "pattented Darthnuno discharge tool"  

No offence to anybody, but i think the "extention rod" makes it less accurate to work with, so i prefer a screwdriver without a rod, to have more control over what i am doing.

Like te one that gyruss uses :



since you want to capkit it, its good that you discharged it, but like andre says, its not needed if you just remove the monitor with caution to not touch the HV parts.

[solidsnake]

No offence to anybody, but i think the "extention rod" makes it less accurate to work with

yep you got a point there.

after all im glad that i took the monitor out so i can look at it a closer.
and i found some problems.
i think the reason me anode cap came out easy is because there is a leg missing




one conector was loose from the pcb,it came out wen i wanted to pul out the conector



so need to solder that again to the pcb


then i saw another conector



its coming loose also,if i move it i can see the pins moving too at the solderside
so they need resolder too




as etienne already said its the hantarex mtc 900

now about the anode cap can you stil buy those things new or
cos i dont got the feeling it fits tight anymore

and about the cap kits wat is a good place to buy from