[Restoration] Frogger - why did the frog cross the road?

[Superully]

made the adjustments, +12v and -5v are now running through the switcher. measuring around +14v and -4.6v on the edge connector. hooked up the speaker, started the game - NOTHING!!! moz even a buzz / hum . tested it with another speaker - some results !

i guess i'll have to take those measures on the board then. the big question remains: how / where do i measure that sound amp?

[Belike]

As I see, there is nothing connected to this connector on your pcb.

Normally, a wire goes there from the cab, you won't have sound without that.
I'm not sure it will help, but some more pics from mine:

[Superully]

thx bela, but normally there is something connected to the 6-pin connector. it's just that i had it off for testing purposes!

[Etienne MacGyver]

i guess i'll have to take those measures on the board then. the big question remains: how / where do i measure that sound amp?

I will quote myself  

Here you see the chip, and that pin 9 is +12 volts.
Pin 2 & 6 are ground, so measure between pin 2 and 9.

Also you can see in the schematics that pin 4 of the LM471 wants -5Volt...

Oh, and maybe you ask yourself how to "count" the pins of IC's..

Like this :  

And to be complete, here how you count the pins on the M51516L:



although its also marked on your board...




next:

thx bela, but normally there is something connected to the 6-pin connector. it's just that i had it off for testing purposes!

That something is the volume pot i think ?
If that is off for testing, it will not give sound according to Punkrock caveman:

let me take you back to page 12 of this threat..

Frogger neccessarily needs a volume pot on the 6-pin connector (labeled 6P) on the upper board to play sound. It is a 200 ohms, when I remember right wire it like this: pin 2 of 6P goes to pin 1 of the pot, pin 4 of 6P goes to pin 2 of the pot and finally pin 6 of 6P goes to pin 3. Then you hear sound

[Superully]

thx etienne, i will return with the results soon. i had misread your posting before ... shame on me

That something is the volume pot i think ?
If that is off for testing, it will not give sound according to Punkrock caveman:

just took it off for the continuity test, it's always connected when testing the speaker!

[Etienne MacGyver]

just took it off for the continuity test, it's always connected when testing the speaker!

Just checking my friend  

[Superully]

Just checking my friend 

and that's a good thing to do because you never know what supernoobully is doing wrong this time

anyway, just got back with the sound amp voltages: +14.13v. i guess that's ok!

now on to that other chip / amp, the one you called LM741. was the chip i pictured a while back the correct one (because it has 741 written on it) or am i looking for a different one?

if i can't figure out the sound issue, perhaps it would be an option to ship my pcb to PRC to have it tested in his cab to find out whether the error is on the board or on the harness / potentiometer ...

[Etienne MacGyver]

now on to that other chip / amp, the one you called LM741. was the chip i pictured a while back the correct one (because it has 741 written on it) or am i looking for a different one?

Yes sir, thats the one  

If you look at the schematics, and look at the board, you see that the board marks are IC1 for the LM741 and IC2 for the M51516L.

In the schematics, you see just above the word "LM741" a number "1" , and in front of the word "M51516L" a number "2"

That indicates IC1 and IC2 in this case  

[Superully]

pin3 is ground?

[Etienne MacGyver]

Yes, you're starting to learn the schematics 

[Superully]

while waiting for the sound problem to dissolve into thin air, i worked on the coin door! this is what it looked like when i got it (remember: the original one was gone and i had to get a replacement from anthony@quarterarcade)





first order of business: remove those coin inserts along with the coin mechs



while the coin insert plates were screwed to the coin door, the coin mechs are bolted to the plates



in order to get the coin mechs off, i have to hammer those bolts out



fallen to pieces



the coin insert plates are nasty and scratched



full polish treatment - activated!



mirror, mirror, on the wall ...



in the meantime, the coin door itself magically returned from the powdercoater



the big question was: how do i re-attach those coin insert plates / coin mechs to the coin door. as i've said, they had used screws before for the plates, but i didn't like the looks of those, so i wanted to think of something new instead. the answer came to me when i was cleaning the adjustment plate behind the coin door: pop rivets!!!



i had bought myself a nice riveting set quite a while ago and now it was time to put this to the test



everything in position



riveting pliers and rivets ready



in goes the rivet



and done! looking food so far



coin mech attached to the plate, now the plate needs to be attached to the coin door. rivets in place, ...



pliers in action, ...



operation successful!!!





two shots of the finished coin door (with a fresh lock installed as well) - i totally like the way this turned out!

[Etienne MacGyver]

Looking AWSOME !!! 

[Vnera]

You do such a good job. Just perfect!

[Lee]

I heard somewhere that Sega might had a lot of Moon Cresta boards laying around so they slapped a extra board on them and they were Frogger pcbs (Sega only)! If i were you look up Moon Cresta pinouts because Frogger pcbs are pretty much the same board but with an extra board.

[Superully]

thx, but i do have the frogger pinouts. or are you trying to tell me something i'm not getting because of my "noobness"?