[Restoration] Frogger - why did the frog cross the road?

[PaulSwan]

Maybe the cab your wiring came from a cab that used a Japanese monitor? I had the same issue with my Tehkan Phoenix when the flyback died in it's (unknown) monitor. To get a Hantarex in there instead I had to add a new isolation transformer to replace the original monitors 100v one.

Paul.

[Superully]

ah, didn't know there were monitors which are running on less voltage. i guess i should solder the wires to 120v then and give it a try ...

one more thing: the +5v voltage on the pcb connector is fine (+5.02v) when the connector is NOT connected to the pcb. however, once i attach the connector +5v drops down to roughly +4.2v. any comments on this?

[PaulSwan]

Most likely there is a bad/dirty connection in the wiring loom - clean the PCB edge connector (both PCB and connector itself) and make sure the power supply connectors on the other end are clean and tight. Check all of the +5v and ground wires (often there are multiple wires between the power supply terminals and the connector terminals so the load is spread).

Paul.

[Superully]

Most likely there is a bad/dirty connection in the wiring loom - clean the PCB edge connector (both PCB and connector itself) and make sure the power supply connectors on the other end are clean and tight.

the thing is that i have +5.02v when measured at the switcher and +5.02v when measured at the unconnected connector. however, once i attach the connector the +5.02v stay the same at the switcher but drop to around +4.20v at the attached connector!

[PaulSwan]

Yes, under a load the voltage drops the farther away it gets from the power supply. If you get 4.2V on the wire thats attached to the PCB edge connector, then the bad connection or wire is between there and the power supply. You're looking for the point at which the 5V is lost.

Paul.

[Etienne MacGyver]

perhaps i should simply solder them to 120v - what do you think?

100 % 

Youre getting smarter my the minute Ully 
(no offence !)

[level42]

put yout dvm in ohms reading and measure WITH POWER OFF between the +5V terminal on the switcher and the +5V terminal on the connector. Should be very close to zero.

Then do the same with the 0v or GND or whatever it's called.

[Superully]

put yout dvm in ohms reading and measure WITH POWER OFF between the +5V terminal on the switcher and the +5V terminal on the connector. Should be very close to zero.
Then do the same with the 0v or GND or whatever it's called.

just finished the tests as andré suggested: both measures (+5v and GND) came up with zero resistance. and now?

ah, didn't know there were monitors which are running on less voltage. i guess i should solder the wires to 120v then and give it a try ...

soldered the three wires (two pink and one brown) to 120v, checked the voltage output: roughly 123v at the switcher, the monitor connector (unconnected) and the marquee lighting fixture. after measuring the voltages i connected the monitor and almost died of a heart attach: spark flying around the monitor everywhere, even in the neck itself. checked all the connections on the chassis, but couldn't find a mistake. what could be causing that? the monitor is an electrohome and it should work fine under 120v - or am i mistaken?

one more thing: there are two wires running to the speaker. how much voltage is the speaker supposed to get and how / where do i measure those voltages?

[PaulSwan]

The resistance doesn't have to be much and may not show by measuring it directly and without a load (the power on and something connected). I've always used the "find where the voltage drops" method (see where the 5V begins to fall away to 4.2V).

For your monitor fireworks, that's not good. Maybe draw a picture of what you have connected and to where, including the existing wiring you have on the loom you have?

Paul.

[level42]

I'd like to see a picture of that transformer with the wires out of the way of the schematic on it...

[Superully]

The resistance doesn't have to be much and may not show by measuring it directly and without a load (the power on and something connected). I've always used the "find where the voltage drops" method (see where the 5V begins to fall away to 4.2V).

should i only check the +5v line or also the grounds?

For your monitor fireworks, that's not good. Maybe draw a picture of what you have connected and to where, including the existing wiring you have on the loom you have?

i'm afraid something's wrong with the wiring of the transformator, i'll some pictures soon replying to andre's request.

[Superully]

I'd like to see a picture of that transformer with the wires out of the way of the schematic on it...

like this?



in more detail: upper and lower part!





looking at the following picture again (and knowing the fact that there were "wire residues" when i attached the three wires to the 120v terminal), i tend towards moving the two pink wires back to 100v and leaving the brown wire on 120v. it looks as if it belongs there, as if it had been there from the beginning and just came off during transport. would that make any sense at all? the two pink wires at 100 and the brown one at 120v?

[Lee]

I LOVE THIS GAME. I even came up with lyrics to the opening song. Heres how it goes:

Why did the frog cross the road?
Did he want to go to the other side
or he wanted to die.

[PaulSwan]

Someone correct me if I'm wrong here...

I've seen that type used before and I've seen it used differently than I think you're trying to use it here.

The two identical windings on the primary side (left) and they are both used as the mains side input. They are driven together in parallel for 120V and in series for 240V. It's not intended that the 120V input on one primary is used to generate an isolated 120V output on the other primary. The 0-120V tap on the secondary (right) side is the isolated tap for the monitor.

On the left side, the mains input will need to go to both 0 and 120V inputs for a 120V mains supply. The other taps on the primary (left) side are not usually used for outputs.

Does that make sense? You should be connecting 120V live to each of the two 120V tabs on the primary (left) windings and neutral to the two 0V taps on the primary (left). Your monitor connects to the 0-120V tabs on the secondary (right) side.

Paul.

[Etienne MacGyver]

It looks like 120 volt is the primary side of this transformer..

but you said you got 123 at the monitor connection, so that should be fine..

is there another transformer in that cabinet , or are you feeding 230 volts into the 120 connector of the transformer now ?

Or maybe you can explane the "path" from the mains plug so we can trace where the problem might be ?

one more thing: there are two wires running to the speaker. how much voltage is the speaker supposed to get and how / where do i measure those voltages?

I dont think you can measure that in voltages..  or maybe you can, because when i was young i have connected a 6 volts "bicycle" lightbulb to the audio source and the light was dimming and getting brighter on the beat  

i think the best way to check that is to listen if you hear the sounds of the game, so credit and start a game, i think frogger has continue music AFAIK