:: POPEYE - Still need to save Olivia / The Renovation, full of Spinach! ::

[level42]

Looks like an EZ20 to me.

Thanks  I'll order a capkit for that 

Why a whole cap-kit ? My (new?) motto: if it ain't broke, don't fix it....

Looks to me like all you need it that C407

I told you !!!

[DarthNuno]

Looks like an EZ20 to me.

Thanks  I'll order a capkit for that 

Why a whole cap-kit ? My (new?) motto: if it ain't broke, don't fix it....

Looks to me like all you need it that C407

I told you !!!

Yeps, I know... but when you have access to the monitor board, it's so easy to change all the cap' at this time 
In addition, I had other problem on that monitor (size of the picture not stable when monitor is hot... seems to decrease slowly) and so hope to fix them all with all these new cap'

C201 needs to be a 10 uf, just checked in different sources..

and in my list its 50 volts

you can always use higher voltages, but the microfarats need to be the same value !

since the original was 25 volts , the 50v that i used in gyruss's 20EZ is fine, i dont know the original values, maybe it was capped before, but if its higher than the 16v that you use, you could have more trouble..

it could very well be that this is your problem

solder the oldone back and check the screen is my suggestion 

Do you think a simple cap' may be responsible for a such problem?  I mean the display is cut exactly in the middle of the screen 

[Etienne MacGyver]

well, if the rest of the caps have the correct value, and one not, thats the first thing to correct if you ask me

if this is causing your problem, that i cannot tell, but i can imagine if some value of some part is not correct, that it might reflect in other parts as well, and then you have strange problems

so the cap is maybe not the problem for itself, but it maybe influences other parts on the way

i would just solder the oldone back, and check that first.

or replace it with a newone with the correct value if you got one around

Remember:

Higher voltage = no problem (sometimes even better)
different uF values and lower voltages than the original = NO GO ! (asking for trouble)

[DarthNuno]

Well, let's try to investigate around this famous C201.
After pulling back the monitor from the cab once cabinet, and put all that stuff in 'my desk', here's the famous guy (after 'desoldering' it) 



Let's double check -once again- what I'm supposed to replaced on that C201 location on the instructions sheet :



It's written 100uf @ 16 V ... but it was previously a 10uf @ 25 V ... strange isn't it? 

Ok, I don't want to try with the original 10uf @ 25 V, because I still have a 10uf @ 50 V, and as Etienne said that value works, so this will be the first test. So on top, the one I've just removed, and under it, the one I'll put now! 



No need to test something else!!! It works   



The picture quality is great, now I've full screen display  ...and it also correct the small 'shaking' / size variation of the picture I got when the monitor is hot 



GREAT! Now I can start to work on the esthetic part of this POPEYE renovation... and in addition, I can start to play/score on it  



 

[Etienne MacGyver]

Im happy to see this !

It was the right direction in my simple mind  

Looking sharp !

Still i would complain / feedback the supplier of your list !
so they can give a correct cap for this one in theyre future sales

funny to see that a minescule part that almost cost nothing can screw up so much uh!

[DarthNuno]

Yeps, but one bad point for the instruction sheet coming with that cap' kit! Or maybe my monitor is a special revision and is not 100% like the other Sanyo 20-EZV R-B, C monitor?
Fortunately, I've noticed on my sheet something wrong about the C201, during the capkit operation... If I didn't write that remark, I wouldn't have any clue about the problem and that specific C201 
Anyway, there is an happy end 

[Superully]

fabulous, bruno, just fabulous! interesting to see however what big problems such a tiny piece like a capacitor can cause!

[Etienne MacGyver]

Yeps, but one bad point for the instruction sheet coming with that cap' kit! Or maybe my monitor is a special revision and is not 100% like the other Sanyo 20-EZV R-B, C monitor?
Fortunately, I've noticed on my sheet something wrong about the C201, during the capkit operation... If I didn't write that remark, I wouldn't have any clue about the problem and that specific C201  
Anyway, there is an happy end  

I dont think so its a revision issue here, just a mistake of the list

The happy end is the most important, but we have learned a lesson here;
Always look whats comming out of your board..  nomatter what the caplist says, like here its put together by humans, and humans make mistakes..

Anyway, im happy for you that you got it working, thats the most important  

[level42]

Amazing they have that mistake in that sheet still, I mean the 20EZ is a VERY common monitor....

Well done Bruno !

[gyruss]

great, and nice picture quality too. I can't wait to see how mine turned out...

[level42]

The 20EZ is one of the best "old" monitors IMHO.

[DarthNuno]

Back on this!

After almost three years ( ), I finally take a moment to look back at this cabinet -which is still running fine- but who cries every time I play it,  asking me : "For the love of God, please finish me!". 

Ok,ok... so as you can see the CPO instructions sheet is damaged...



Closer 



Let's remove the CPO... ok it's just a piece of paper/thin cardboard applied against the plexi on its back



although the instructions sheet is sticked on the edges only, the entire sheet is literally glued to plastic, thanks to all these years, strongly stuck between 2 parts... and so it cannot be removed by hand. I'm using a product to remove 'wall paper'. It works great!



Now let put my 'laser copy' repro instead...



Yeah!



On location...



Just a simple detail, but looks far better isn't it? 



Next step... remove this... 'sticker remains'?! 



Believe me (or not), but I tried everything I know to remove this... with no success! 

Tried :

- simple soap
- water
- my usual 'sticker remover' product
- 'Wall paper' remover

The only progress I can do on this is ... using my finger to scratch... it takes an eternity (besides being painful for my nails) to remove only few 'pixels' of it!

Any idea? 

[xentraz]

Have you tried nail polish remover?

[DarthNuno]

Have you tried nail polish remover?

Not yet, but I presume my 'sticker remover' is the same kind of product?


my usual sticker remover product I'm using since many years


Anyway, I will give a try.

[Etienne MacGyver]

is it the bezel you want to strip this residue off ?

if yes, is it a glass bezel, or a plexi ?

if its plexi i would not use nailpolish remover, i think that it will damage the plexi...

nailpolish remover has acetone in it, and acetone is used to weld acrylic, so it melts acrylic....