:: POPEYE - Still need to save Olivia / The Renovation, full of Spinach! ::

[DarthNuno]

Following this Road Trip ... 



... let's start to 'work' on this, in order to help Popeye to save Olivia 

That cabinet is in that place in my living room ( ) since the road trip day... never plugged since, except once at the seller's place. I know there's something wrong. I hope it's only the monitor, not the board...I can't remember in fact 
OK! This time, I want to focus on the hardware part first. So let's plug immediately the cabinet! 



I can see the game on screen, very dark... and when I put a credit, I can play the game... sounds and moves seems to be ok so far ...



Ok, it's maybe a simple monitor setting problem? Let's find some pots to turn  Why not one of these?   



Bingo! Looks far better now   



Great! I can play the game... everything seems ok  but ... I would say 10% of the upper part of the image is compressed :



...Well it should be a simple problem of V-position and/or V Size I would say?  Let's try to find such setting on that (unknown?) monitor...
I can find this 



Dawn it! No V-Position (or in this case 'V-Center')... only the V-Size! Whatever the settings tried, I cannot have the upper part of the pictures displayed correctly! (Well, I can see it if I extend dramatically the V-Size and modify the sychro with the V-Hold, but in that case... I'm losing the sync of course ...but it's a prove that the board is working well, no the monitor!).
Is there a chance to find a V-Position somewhere on the chassis? Yes, I have to identity the monitor of course!

An other question. Some(most of?) Nintendo boards are sending an inverted picture to the monitor. So I presume it's the case with that Popeye.
Now see that small board 



On the left, you can see the colored wires coming from the Popeye board, going into that small board, and the signals going out from a connector labeled 'NON INVERT OUT' into the monitor's board.
There's an other connector labeled 'INVERT OUT'. Do you think I may use that last connector to send the signal into a 'regular' 15Khz monitor? ...and so skip the use of a Mike's Color Inverter and sound amp board?

[Etienne MacGyver]

Its great to see image!, this is a good sign, the board looks fine !

this will not need a Mame solution!

congrats so far Bruno!

[level42]

That's ONE single cap you have to replace to fix that problem.

That cap is very near a transistor that gets very hot and thus the cap dries out.

What kind of monitor is it, EZ20 ? or the one before ?

From the top of my head it os C406 or C407. I had exactly the same problem with my Sanyo.


Those Sanyo's are one of the best arcade monitors IMHO.

Also: You shouldn't have adjusted the R, G and B pots but of course the brightness pot instead.

[DarthNuno]

OK, I'll check the exact ref. of the monitor, and check (replace) the capacitor(s) 

[DarthNuno]

Also: You shouldn't have adjusted the R, G and B pots but of course the brightness pot instead.

Yeps, it has been done just after found the 'brightness' pot!  ... and especially because I love a pure 'black' background 

[level42]

No need to check the monitor nrs.

Does it have a metal frame (like two big vertical bars in the back) ?

If so: It's a EZ20.

[level42]

Found it, it's C407. (If it's an EZ-20, which is by far the most likely).

Replace that, and you're GOLDEN !

Your monitor seems to have a nice wide picture...that's still the problem I've got with it....too narrow...

[baritonomarchetto]

Those machines where not very cheap, IIRC, so it's nice to see you had some luck Bruno 

[DarthNuno]

No need to check the monitor nrs.

Does it have a metal frame (like two big vertical bars in the back) ?

If so: It's a EZ20.

Here's a view of the monitor, in order to identify it   

[level42]

Looks like an EZ20 to me.

Be sure to get a high temperature (105 degr.) GOOD quality cap for that location (C407). It gets very hot because of the heat-sink of a transistor that is placed right next to it.

[DarthNuno]

Looks like an EZ20 to me.

Thanks  I'll order a capkit for that 

[level42]

Looks like an EZ20 to me.

Thanks  I'll order a capkit for that 

Why a whole cap-kit ? My (new?) motto: if it ain't broke, don't fix it....

Looks to me like all you need it that C407

[DarthNuno]

Got my "Monitor repair kit for Nintendo (Sanyo 20-EZV R-B,C) monitors :



Let's go 



I replace almost everything...



..and after cutting the legs and fix them... here we are ... like brand new regarding the capacitors   



Note that there is a HUGE one, not replaced because not included in the Cap' kit ?!
Ok, now the big moment... power on and 



ARGGHHH!!!!

Picture is displayed on *exactly* the half upper part on the screen 
I've tried to turn the 'usual' pots, but it doesn't help. Everything is located in an half part of the screen! What could be wrong now?
During the replacement of the capacitors, on the sheet, for the position C201 it written to put a 100uf @16V, but the original one was a 10uf @ 25V. Do you think my 'half display' problem could be related to this capacitor?

[Etienne MacGyver]

C201 needs to be a 10 uf, just checked in different sources..

and in my list its 50 volts

you can always use higher voltages, but the microfarats need to be the same value !

since the original was 25 volts , the 50v that i used in gyruss's 20EZ is fine, i dont know the original values, maybe it was capped before, but if its higher than the 16v that you use, you could have more trouble..

it could very well be that this is your problem

solder the oldone back and check the screen is my suggestion  

[gyruss]

argh, that sucks! Hope you'll able to fix it soon...