[Restoration] The King of the Jungle: Aaayihiah-Yihi-Ahauauooooo

[Etienne MacGyver]

the link was not the actual item you need to order, it was meant to put you in the good direction  

Find these KIND of connectors with a spacing of 4 mm and the correct diameter..

Or like i would do, just throw in a bunch of nails for testing

or solder the connectors through on the back of the filterboard with bridge wires.

[level42]

Of which student did you steal that ruler Ully ? 

cut all connectors (color by color, wire per wire) , strip and twist them together, solder and put a shrink tube over it. done 

[Superully]

Of which student did you steal that ruler Ully ? 

my collection of writing utensils is growing every day

cut all connectors (color by color, wire per wire) , strip and twist them together, solder and put a shrink tube over it. done 

i would do that if i knew it was the filter board. but as long as i don't, i don't want to destroy original parts!

[Etienne MacGyver]

i would mod the filterboard, that fix is easy undone in case it does not work, and you have fresh solderings also in that way 

[Superully]

today i did the mod to bypass the filterboard. for that, i first removed all the connectors from it and wired the connector which is responsible for "distributing" voltages across the game pcb



hooked everything up to the switching power supply



up next, i brought out the tools of the day



because the nails were too long, i had to cut off their heads and divide the pin into smaller pieces



squeezed those pins into the individual connectors ...



... and stuck them together with their corresponding counterparts!



finally, i checked the entire setup for continuity, fired up the game and measured the voltages. everything was as it's supposed to be, picture came up nicely, so i anxiously tried adding credits via the coin switches - NOTHING!!!

shorted the test switch with ground - CREDITS +1!!!

in short: nothing has changed except for the fact that the filter board is out of the equation, i still can't add credits the way i should be able to!

this leaves me with two options now:
(a) check the board like the caveman had suggested (for which i would need a lot of help / input from you guys)
(b) splice up the test switch wire and hack it into the coin switch position

option (a) is more difficult but the pro version of how to fix a game, option (b) is much easier but more an amateurish approach.

what do you think?

[level42]

Rewire-> Done -> enjoy game

[Etienne MacGyver]

Love the nail trick TM.  

I would also use the test switch pin as a credit switch.
I'll quote myself..

Well, since the manual states a jumper, and a backup battery that are both absent, its clear that the manual is wrong.

with that knowledge it could be that the pinout is also wrong, and the coin connection is indeed the pin 11.

does it play normal ?

If so; just wire up the coin mechs to pin 11 

[Muerto]

I would do as Etienne and André said, because if you do it the hard way and it turns out not working, your only option is "b" which you would have wasted even more time getting to...

[PunkRockCaveman]

Though I would suggest Andres tip and bridge that filter board, here is an easy two step test to check the filter:

1) check the connection from the ground pin of the coin mech microswitch to the gnd of the pcb with the continuity function of your multimeter. Just put it in the beep mode and put me test probe on the pin of the micro switch that is wired to ground. Should be easy to spot, because it is daisy chained ... The other probe on the pcb ... If you hear a beep, first mission accomplished ... Do the same with the other (signal) pin of the coin mech switch. If that one beeps, too ... Proceed to step 2).

2) check that, if the mikroswitch closes, there is a signal on the pcb. Therefore put one probe on a gnd pin on the pcb and the other probe (beep mode enabled of course) on the coin1 pin of the pcb. Then close the microswitch in the coin mech. You should hear a beep now.

If both works, you have a problem on the pcb ... Look on my previous post for a test procedure on that


PS: Oops! Damn .. That happens when you don't update the pages in the tabs of your browser for days sorry ... Didn't see that you already bridged the filter board. Ok .. So it's a pcb fault obviously. The check the chips I mentioned earlier. If you need help, you can call me ... I can guide you through the process.

[Superully]

i've just come back from some more testing. this thing is starting to drive me nuts, because i can add credits by shorting GND with the test switch directly on the pcb (which doesn't work for GND and coin 1 / coin 2 btw), BUT i can not add credits by shorting GND and the test switch pin on the coin door connector.

i have to tell you though that i have reversed yesterday's steps by removing the "nail connection" reverting back to my original setup. here i do have continuity from the coin door connector to the R15 connector on the filter board and i also have continuity from the other R15 connector to the pcb. BUT i don't have continuity from the coin door connector to the filter board because the filter board is in between and i guess i can't measure continuity through the filter board, can i?

why did i remove the "nail connection"? i somehow had the feeling that the connections i made were not tight, i sometimes had a missing color on the picture or the control panel wasn't working at all, that's why i reverted back.

with that being said, i cannot do the tests mr caveman suggested right now because the filter board is "in the way". i need to find some real connectors to make good connections between the individual filter board connectors. my current idea is to remove all the pins / wires from their connectors and attach them through luster terminals. this would make a definite tight connection and give me a 100% certainty!



are you still following me?

[PunkRockCaveman]

Yeah, this time I followed your post lets forget the filter board for a while ... I still think, that you have a pcb problem. If you shorten the coin1 pin to gnd there is no coinage, right? If this is so, check the chips, dude no chance to get this running by fiddling with the filter board then ...

[Superully]

yeah, no coinage even if i short on the pcb directly. the thing is, i bought this as fully working from andy's arcade, don't know how andy added credits when he tested it. and i still don't get it why i can add credits when shorting the pins (GND and service) on the pcb but why it doesn't work the same way on the coin door connector.

anyway, you've offered your help checking the chips, i'll gladly take it. today is not a good time though, i'm off to run some errands and then it's soccer time all the way . how about tomorrow? anything i need to do in advance? which tools do i need?

[PunkRockCaveman]

Tomorrow is good. Ideal for testing would be a oscilloscope or at least an logic probe. If you don't have any of that your multimeter might do the job if it is fast in reaction. We will see what we can do. My cosmic alien pcb had the same problem, when I got the cab and it has almost the same coin circuitry whith the Schmid triggers. I fixed that one the same way so I think we might find a solution fast.

Why is the service switch working you asked. Because the trigger/buffer combination on that pin on the pcb is still fine could be the reason. Also service is often handled a bit different in pcbs because it doesn't cause a coin counter impulse if you coin up through service button. So it's a slight other part of the circuitry that does the service coinage.

[Belike]

I think Ully has the "all in one" equipment for this job.

[Superully]

i have the cheap logic probe that andré recommended once, hope it'll suffice!







how about 2 o'clock in the afternoon? this should give us enough time before the big soccer match begins ...

please shot me a pm with your phone number (no mobile phone if possible), i'll call you then when i'm ready!