[Restoration] The King of the Jungle: Aaayihiah-Yihi-Ahauauooooo

[Superully]

by the way, i specified the fuse by recalculating it from 110v 3 amps to 220v 1,5 amps

we're talking about the line filter setup here, right? i'm just asking because both units i have (the one from the usa WITH and line filter and the one which was in the shinobi cab WITHOUT the line filter) use a 250V 3A fuse and the label states to only use fuses like that!

[Etienne MacGyver]

Yep, and i based that up of this calculation :

3 amps @ 110 volts = 330 watt

330 watt / 220 volts = 1,5 amps

[Superully]

note that the shinobi-converted cabinet was running with 230 volts and it used the 3A 250V fuse ...

[Etienne MacGyver]

well, its just theoreticly what i tried to explane, it will not be a problem to leave it 3 amps @ 220V, because in case of a short, the 3 amp will also blow, and by doing that, its doing what its supposed to do; blow in case sh#t happens

[Superully]

this is probably my lengthiest restoration so far, however slowly but surely it seems to be coming to an end (it's about time)!

perhaps you remember my problem: i didn't have the original power supply and an isolation transformer in my cab, so in order to get power to the components i would have had to hack the original wiring harness - which i didn't want to do. hmmm, what to do instead? two weeks ago i went over to the storage to re-arrange some cabs - including my zoo keeper. from my memory i thought that it was empty except for the monitor, but when i checked i found something wonderful at the bottom of the cab



EXACTLY what i needed! isn't there something missing, you might be wondering? yes, there is, the power supply pcb, but i don't need that, because my harness has been modified to be used with a switcher (which is always a good idea with taito cabs). so i got the whole setup out of the zoo keeper cab and brought it home for the superully treatment. here's a couple of pictures of its original condition: as you can see some rusty parts and worn labels!







i removed everything from the board (including the stickers) and gave it a nice cosy anti-rust bath



followed by some layers of zinc-alu spray



while waiting for the paint to dry i created a fresh set of labels (printed and laminated)



which i then put on double-sided tape



i also cleaned the fuse holders (still dirty on the left, much better after cleaning it on the right)



and then i put everything back together!









last order of business: install it in the jungle king cabinet



i've got the power

[Etienne MacGyver]

Hey !, thats my job  

Looks really Super(Ully)!

reminds me i still need to finish a vector....  

sorry dude, so much things to do atm, but eventually it will be done  

[simplesi]

This is a fantastic post. Please put up more photos. Did the Taito cabs come in other colours in general?

[Superully]

This is a fantastic post. Please put up more photos.

thx a lot, i'm hoping to finish the resto in the christmas holidays, at least i want to have the game up and running by then!

Did the Taito cabs come in other colours in general?

yepp, many different color variations, here's an overview!

[simplesi]

Nice colours. My girlfriend would love a pink one. Her order is in (and that's the only way I get another cab). I must talk her round and say it has to be dedicated, OR, it's the colour scheme for the multi Taito. Hmmm....

[Superully]

a christmas present has arrived



andy's arcade? what could that be?



inside: a black antistatic bag ...



... with a nice warning label!



antistatic bag? this can only mean one thing pcb alert!!!



in detail: taito it is!



time to work on those pcb mounting brackets: the metal is dirty and the plastic slides are distorted



let me fix that



filter board and pcb mounted to the back door



but before i can give this setup a try, there are two more things i need to do. way back i accidently plugged in the power plug without putting a stepdown converter in between and by doing so blew the varistor next to the line filter



varistor removed



new ones ordered from china eh rs online



old vs new: on the left the 110v original version, on the right the 230v china stuff



fixed a high-quality stepdown converter (still missing its cover on the photo) to the power board, after all the isolation transformer runs on 110 v



setting up everything for a test run



after measuring voltages on the crucial connections with some parts still disconnected (e.g. monitor) i decide we're good to go, so let's flick the switch!



marquee lights come on ...



... and so do the instruction card lights at the bottom of the bezel



i can also hear the monitor crackle when flicking the switch, however, the picture itself doesn't look very jungle king-esque to me



hm, what could be wrong? voltages are ok (a little bit more on that later though), the pcb is supposed to be working, connections are fine except for one wire which still is unconnected. remember, the wiring harness had been hacked for a switching power supply and there was one line labeled M RESET which puzzled a lot of people (me included).



i asked the question about the purpose of M RESET on KLOV and some guys suggested hooking it up to +5v as well. let's try this



let's give this another try: flick the switch part deux!!!



i slowly and anxiously walk around the cabinet to see this



woaahhh!!! after god-knows how many years, jungle king is back in the house cabinet! however, i'm sure you've also noted that the top of the picture is distorted



haven't tried the potentiometers yet, but i'll probably have to do a cap kit



nevertheless, i'm absolutely happy where i am right now. i do have a picture and that's something i can work with.

now to some still unresolved stuff: i don't have +12v or -5v anywhere on the connectors because the guy who did the harness transformation didn't slice switcher connectors in for those voltages. however, i'm not even sure if JK needs +12v and -5v, perhaps the sound is produced differently on this board. unfortunately, i can't tell whether the sound is working or not because the credt switches don't register credits (and the coin door lights don't work). but, i received the coin door from a different taito game and i was told the wiring on my coin door is different from the jungle king coin door wiring, so it could very well be that the coin door is not connected properly. i'll have to check into this tomorrow!!!

for now, jungle king is alive!

[Etienne MacGyver]

Great news ! 

[Belike]

Well done!
Btw. you can put some credits to the machine if you short the credit pin with something that I forget (maybe ground) on the pcb's edge connector.

[level42]

In 99% of the board input contacts indeed need to be shorted to GND to activate them.
The only exception Ive seen so far is Asterock which strangely wants the inputs to be connected to +5V....

[Superully]

thx guys! so what you're saying is in order the add credits i have to take the wire going to the credit switch and touch ground? i'll try that tomorrow as well ...

[Etienne MacGyver]

thx guys! so what you're saying is in order the add credits i have to take the wire going to the credit switch and touch ground? i'll try that tomorrow as well ...

Yes sir.