Monitor Chassis Repair - what to do / easy fix?

[Superully]

Indeed try to measure the H pins (weird that the numbering is different, I guess a different tube model). H stands for Heater.
So one lead on H9, the other on H10 (right at the end of the tracks where the pins are.

If you don't see 6,3VAC, I'm pretty sure there's a break in the track/solder.

If you don't see 6,3VAC, turn off the monitor and wait a couple of seconds.

Then put your DVM in continuity check (Diode/beep check) and put one lead on the H9 pin and the other on the closest soldering on the same track.
Repeat for H10. If one of the tracks is broken, you won't hear a beep.
Maybe you will have to wiggle the board GENTLY to get the break (or actually make the contact)....

ok, had the time to to the testings, here are the results (of the german jury )

measured H9 and H10 for VAC - close to nothing, so NO 6.3

turned the machine off, waited for a while and checked for continuity on the following solderings:



both continuity tests on H9 (red)  and H10 (orange) came up positive, which means BEEP all the way. do i have to do the diode test or can i ignore it with a positive continuity result?

so the big question is: what now?

oh, one thing i remember is that during reassembly i "bumped" into the monitor's neck. it wasn't a hard hit, just a very faint bump, but i definitely touched it. could it be that the neck somehow came loose / out of alignment?

[Etienne MacGyver]

i remember that when i fixed a tv in the past i hit the neck accidently when i reinstalled the back cover...

that costed me a new tube then  so it can happen....

[level42]

Well of course you have to make sure that the neckboard is firmly pressed onto the CRT. Gently try pushing it towards the screen on the center of the board !

What now? you ask.

Well since the solderings apparantly are OK, BUT you still have no 6.3 V (you did put it in AC right ?) follow the black and white wires to the main PCB and measure again there where they are connected to the main board.
If you DO have 6,3VAC there, there's something wrong with the wire(s):
Check the wires (pull each wire on each end, does it feel firm or loose ?, Check the solderings of the wires on both sides)

If you still do not have 6,3 VAC there, follow the traces on the main PCB to where it connects to the Flyback. Measure there again. If you still have no 6,3VAC on the Flyback, you can bet that it's dead. Still weird that you hear start-up crackle in that case though.

[Superully]

ok, i had time to continue measuring. once again i checked the pins H9 and H10. when connected and with the multimeter set to AC, the result is ZERO.

andré suggested following the black and white wires to the main pcb and with one lead on white and the other one on black take the measures there. but at first i wanted to try the same thing on the neckboard pcb. have a look at it again: i've marked the trace from H9 to white (WHT) in orange and the one from H10 to black (BLK) in red.



as you know my electronic skills are basic, but am I not right in assuming that when i measure over H9 / H10 and the AV results are ZERO, shouldn't i get the same result for measuring over WHT / BLK? however, the result differs here: 2.2 volts!

follwing those two wires directly onto the chassis mainboard, i get the same result when measuring over WHT / BLK: around 2.2 volts! no 6.3 volts!!!

i'll try to take a short video later on, but for now that's all i could do. your turn