Dragon's Lair Fans - Arcade Lifestyle
General Chat => Arcade Lifestyle => Topic started by: level42 on August 07, 2014, 10:11:12 PM
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Friends....
I've been looking for some info about spray-painting (can) and I stumbled on some videos on youtube which made me wonder about the way _I_ do my (can) spray-painting....
I based my method on what I've seen from a professional car spray painter. He told me the following:
- before spraying, aim the gun right _next_ to the object BEFORE starting to spray
- start the spraying and _then_ begin to move your arm. While moving your arm do NOT change the angle of your wrist (I spray slightly angled, not straight on, the angle is _away_ from the direction I move my arm in)
- keep the speed of the movement of your arm constant
- keep the distance of your hand to the object the same at all time
- when you reach the end of the object _continue_ to move until slightly _passed_ the object and stop spray.
- then change the angle of your wrist to the other side and move back like the first steps
- "overlap" the "stripes" you make over larger objects
- don't try to cover the entire piece in one go. It's better to add a couple of layers with some time in between.
Now.....with that in mind, and having used this method reasonably successfully I saw several videos where "pro's" spray paint and do EVERYTHING opposite of what I told before.
They aim the can at the object, start spraying (which IMHO means a "blob" on your object) and then stop very quickly again (which means another uneven "blob" coming out of the can).
Here's a video that shows that method:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VnIZ_wABrJU
In effect they do small puffs of spray randomly all over the object.
To me it goes against everything I thought was right with spray painting....
So....what do you guys think ? Am I wrong because I used this method which is meant for professional spray painting equipment and do I have to use that other way for can spray painting ?
What do you guys do ?
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I do exactely what you describe.
The only thing i sometimes do is move in a circular motion, but i do stop and start "outside" the object
I have puffed by accident like your second method, which in my case many times resulted in "runners".
So i would stick to the method you have learned, its the same what i have learned bittd on the "LTS" or "ambachtschool", dont know the translation in english..
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I based my method on what I've seen from a professional car spray painter. He told me the following:
- before spraying, aim the gun right _next_ to the object BEFORE starting to spray
- start the spraying and _then_ begin to move your arm. While moving your arm do NOT change the angle of your wrist (I spray slightly angled, not straight on, the angle is _away_ from the direction I move my arm in)
- keep the speed of the movement of your arm constant
- keep the distance of your hand to the object the same at all time
- when you reach the end of the object _continue_ to move until slightly _passed_ the object and stop spray.
- then change the angle of your wrist to the other side and move back like the first steps
- "overlap" the "stripes" you make over larger objects
- don't try to cover the entire piece in one go. It's better to add a couple of layers with some time in between.
What do you guys do ?
This is the EXACT same instructions that a realtive of mine, a professional carpainter told me how it should be done. I always do it like that, never fails. Although it is sometimes difficult to resist another layer in the same go. Just be patient and do 4 or 5 layers with intervals in which the paint can dry. Just as the above instruction.
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Thanks ! Thought I was going nuts ;)
About spray paint cans.....I found this and I want:
http://www.rustoleumspraypaint.com/product/metallic-spray-paint/
(http://www.rustoleumspraypaint.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Metallic-Chrome-NEW-300x450.jpg)
(The chrome version). Looks great for coin door parts like the coin-inserts on Midway coin doors and the mounting hardware.
Found it online for sale here, not very cheap but I only need to do small parts so it'll last....
http://www.verfwebwinkel.nl/rust-oleum-painter-touch-metallic.html?id=4093654
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Most Important:
Don't buy the cheap shit spray paint. Lessons learned here!
The cheap stuff runs and sprays unevenly!
Buy the quality name brand paint. ;)
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I think the rustoleum is a much higher grade as the silver paint i used from the action, but i am curious on how it turns out.
the silversprays i have used in the past all where a bit "powdery" (dont know how to describe) but after drying and harding, it still smudged when i rubbed it with my thumb resulting in a silver thumb.
maybe this is better, but i have had this experience, and not only with the "action" cans..
so i am curious if this is rock solid, and i need that stuff then too !
although the silver i have used worked fine on parts i used it for, since i never touched it after..
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LOL, I had exactly the same experience (both in look and the stuff staying smudgy) with the "silver" from action. I'll show some pics when I return home.
That Online store I pointed to is in Roosendaal and they do offer pick up service :)
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Most Important:
Don't buy the cheap shit spray paint. Lessons learned here!
The cheap stuff runs and sprays unevenly!
Buy the quality name brand paint. ;)
I tend to agree with you, although this was done with cheap paint and looks pretty damn good, better in real life than on the pics:
https://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=3056.msg81352#msg81352
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I think the rustoleum is a much higher grade as the silver paint i used from the action, but i am curious on how it turns out.
the silversprays i have used in the past all where a bit "powdery" (dont know how to describe) but after drying and harding, it still smudged when i rubbed it with my thumb resulting in a silver thumb.
Promised picture. Do I need to point out which is the original ? :P
The structure on the right one comes because I (stupidly) left them on the coin door when they sand-blasted it. Following that they also sprayed the primer layer on them...
So I thought I'd give the silver paint from Action a try (had it anyway).
Fail.
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yeah that looks ghetto, you need that tumbler....
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Already got it......but I'm not too crazy about the results. It's not a sanding device....it's a polishing device, it won't remove any rust f.i.
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FYI:
I'm no expert but I always used the same method you described (starting away from the part, keep moving and so on), worked well for me.
I had good results with rustoleum satin:
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/~chrischris/arcade/paints/rustoleum.jpg)
I recommend to stay away from that cheapest brand:
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/~chrischris/arcade/paints/sencys.jpg)
I heard good things about that more expensive brand, but never tried it myself:
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/~chrischris/arcade/paints/motip.jpg)
Rustoleum metal… I had that can in my hand at least 5 times and always hesistated and finally put it back.
Anyway, just wanted to point out that it seems to be much cheaper here in Belgium… I can bring you some André, if you need more ;) :
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/~chrischris/arcade/paints/rusto_metal.jpg)
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LOL, I had exactly the same experience (both in look and the stuff staying smudgy) with the "silver" from action. I'll show some pics when I return home.
That Online store I pointed to is in Roosendaal and they do offer pick up service :)
These gold and silver paints always smudge. They need a clear finish. But whatever the can cab is showing it will never be like real chrome.... I see it as a scam.
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Already got it......but I'm not too crazy about the results. It's not a sanding device....it's a polishing device, it won't remove any rust f.i.
What medium are you using? Corn and Walnut are not hard enough to remove rust. You could try grid that is used in aquariums in combination with a derusting flued... Not to much flued because the pan is not waterproof.
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I see it as a scam.
No no no, it's a compromise....that is something completely different !
AAAAARGGHGGHGHHGHH Chris, WHERE IS THAT PLACE ?? That is a whole lot cheaper and you can grap'm from the rack !!!
Rust-oleum is pretty hard to find/crazy expensive here. I _LOVE_ the quality but the "hard hat" paints are about 18 euro which is nuts even though you do get more paint in the can than cheaper brands. Also, the hard-hat black I've used in the past gives a bit of a "grey" impression, not deep black. That Painter's touch black looks better already !
I must say I haven't checked my local DIY stores yet though...but Karwei had the gold stuff listed at 11,95, which once again shows we get screwed in Holland with prices because Belgium even has higher VAT......
Thanks for that top Leo, you I really think I need a (much) more aggressive medium. The walnut stuff worked great for Mark's gun cases though, they shine like a mirror ! ;)
I'm not too crazy about Motip....I liked Rust-oleum better.
I also have "hamerslag" from Rust-oleum and although the quality and looks are great I don't like it. It is _not_ what was on those metal parts on cabs....
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You know me guys.....impatient...
Called around a bit. hornbach doesn't carry Rust-oleum but Karwei does and the local one even had it ! OK it's a whole 2 euro's more than what Chris is paying but WTF.
Sadly they only had matt and gloss black....the really funny thing is that that paint range "painter's touch" is exactly the same price as the "cheap" house brand Karwei sprays !
EDIT: They _did_ have the satin gloss version you have to look really well though because the caps of the matt and satin cans look identical !
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That rack pic above is from a store called Dema (it's a chain DYI store).
Rustoleum: the painter's touch line is 7 or 8€ and the metallic line is 9,95€
What about Hammerite?
17,40€ for 1 can!!!
Never tried it but at that price + the primer + my time, I'd rather pay for powder coating the part I think.
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/~chrischris/arcade/paints/hammerite__.jpg)
(that pic is from a store called Hubo, also a DYI chain)
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Results:
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3856/14888261203_45e2a4414d_z.jpg) (http://flic.kr/p/oFCemF)(null) by -Level_42- (http://flic.kr/p/oFCemF)
Above was after tumbling several hours. I sprayed them with Rust-oleum Hard Hat Primer first and then with the Rust-oleum Metallic Chrome.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5596/14868333115_c8f237bc9b_z.jpg) (http://flic.kr/p/oDS6qX)(null) by -Level_42- (http://flic.kr/p/oDS6qX)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3916/14681661500_986ef6abf3_z.jpg) (http://flic.kr/p/onnmsQ)(null) by -Level_42- (http://flic.kr/p/onnmsQ)
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Coin inserts: from top to bottom:
-Original
-Metallic chrome
- metallic chrome + Action clear coat
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5576/14888218543_22ee0a9524_z.jpg) (http://flic.kr/p/oFC1Fa)(null) by -Level_42- (http://flic.kr/p/oFC1Fa)
The clear coat makes it less shiny and in fact dull...
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5572/14681719698_099a9a2a3a_z.jpg) (http://flic.kr/p/onnDLf)(null) by -Level_42- (http://flic.kr/p/onnDLf)
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Left original, right Rust-oleum Metallic Chrome.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3908/14865270971_12d2e71f21_z.jpg) (http://flic.kr/p/oDApan)(null) by -Level_42- (http://flic.kr/p/oDApan)
Coin mech holder:
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3909/14888222283_ae8dc29f2c_z.jpg) (http://flic.kr/p/oFC2MD)(null) by -Level_42- (http://flic.kr/p/oFC2MD)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3874/14888220533_e3de35a321_z.jpg) (http://flic.kr/p/oFC2gt)(null) by -Level_42- (http://flic.kr/p/oFC2gt)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3900/14865891044_8b6d0014c3_z.jpg) (http://flic.kr/p/oDDzuh)(null) by -Level_42- (http://flic.kr/p/oDDzuh)
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I couldn't mount the stuff properly yet, but this gives you an idea about the end result.
Picture with flash:
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3862/14681826597_22c568f74e_z.jpg) (http://flic.kr/p/onocxk)(null) by -Level_42- (http://flic.kr/p/onocxk)
No flash:
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3925/14681828027_589e77e375_z.jpg) (http://flic.kr/p/onocXZ)(null) by -Level_42- (http://flic.kr/p/onocXZ)
Close up:
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3875/14681829407_704c24eef9_b.jpg) (http://flic.kr/p/onodnM)(null) by -Level_42- (http://flic.kr/p/onodnM)
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Note that on the coin door the original coin insert is on the left, the painted one on the right, this was done to compare them only.
IMHO this might be fake, but it is miles better than what it looked like before !
The most convincing parts are the bolts and the coin return button which look absolutely fantastic IMHO.
The coin insert is less convincing, but that is mostly because there is a direct comparison with the original in perfect condition. also, I sprayed OVER the cheap Action silver spray paint, so this probably has some influence too....I should completely sand the coin inserts and try again to know for sure,
If there are two painted coin inserts on a coin door like this without original nearby, no-one is going to notice.
At least the Rust-oleum is a LOT better than the Action "silver" spray and IMHO the results are totally acceptable.
Sure, having these parts chromed again is the perfect solution, but IF you can find a place that can do it, it is quite expensive.
I love this paint, it gets the Level42 approval ;););)
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PS, I wonder if I could actually buff up that paint....might make the coin insert look better.....
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Results:
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3856/14888261203_45e2a4414d_z.jpg) (http://flic.kr/p/oFCemF)(null) by -Level_42- (http://flic.kr/p/oFCemF)
Above was after tumbling several hours. I sprayed them with Rust-oleum Hard Hat Primer first and then with the Rust-oleum Metallic Chrome.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5596/14868333115_c8f237bc9b_z.jpg) (http://flic.kr/p/oDS6qX)(null) by -Level_42- (http://flic.kr/p/oDS6qX)
The round one I can make shiny in second with the buffing wheel... Is that what it is called?
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3916/14681661500_986ef6abf3_z.jpg) (http://flic.kr/p/onnmsQ)(null) by -Level_42- (http://flic.kr/p/onnmsQ)
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Lost my text :P The round flat ones can be done with a buffing wheel. For the squere ones i have used acid to get rid of the rust. Then used water to clear the acid and then tumble a bit with a mix off walnut grain with some brass polish or commondant.
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Coin inserts: from top to bottom:
-Original
-Metallic chrome
- metallic chrome + Action clear coat
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5576/14888218543_22ee0a9524_z.jpg) (http://flic.kr/p/oFC1Fa)(null) by -Level_42- (http://flic.kr/p/oFC1Fa)
The clear coat makes it less shiny and in fact dull...
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5572/14681719698_099a9a2a3a_z.jpg) (http://flic.kr/p/onnDLf)(null) by -Level_42- (http://flic.kr/p/onnDLf)
The clear makes that it does not smear anymore. But as it seams also dull >:(
In the end I must say that the coindoor looks great... With or without real chrome. You should be proud on this job well done....it makes the cab look factory fresh.
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+1!
I have no idea what a pro would charge to chrome parts so I just asked a company nearby.
Will keep you posted :)
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That clear makes it indeed dull, i could tell you that before since i did that on my "schuurdeurklink" :D
I also used it on the hinges, which i didnt clearcoat, since i never touch those, and amazingly it stays on very well after 3 years of rain..
The hinges do kind of shine, but its ofcourse not chrome.