Dragon's Lair Fans - Arcade Lifestyle
General Chat => Galaxian Theater => Topic started by: ataritoobin on November 07, 2012, 02:52:31 AM
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I caught wind of a Japanese Namco Starblade machine that was heading for the dump. :'(
Trouble is, it was a state away. I'm completely out of room. What to do? SAVE STARBLADE! :spaceace:
I have a friend nearby the game's location, but it was just too big. I wouldn't be able to make it out there before the game was dumped, so I arranged for a shipping company to pick it up. The owner went way over and above to help me out with this, and even wrapped it with cardboard and shrink wrap :spaceace:. Arrived safely, as described with no surprises. Big thumbs up.
One week later, the poor delivery driver was sent out alone with a liftgate that was narrower than the game. We were able to get it braced as it came down to safety (350kg :o).
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/Starblade1.jpg)
The game is too tall to fit through the garage door! I removed the upper monitor shell and was able to just make it in.
Here she is next to her older sister:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/Starblade2.jpg)
Dirty! Unfortunately, it sat in a shipping container for at least 10 years. Mirror intact! There is some plastic damage on the rear left "tail light."
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/Starblade3.jpg)
Some rust, lots of dirt.
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/Starblade4.jpg)
Spare parts! A couple of bulbs for the rear monitor section.
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/Starblade5.jpg)
Seat damage. Oddly enough the seat design is nearly identical to the Pole Position seat :spaceace:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/Starblade6.jpg)
This indeed is heart breaking :'( The area with the most moisture/rust: :oops: :shock:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/Starblade7.jpg)
The power supplies are for sure shot. The PCBs, from what I could tell didn't look too bad, but I understand they're already finicky in the first place. The cage screws are rusted stuck.
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/Starblade10.jpg)
The original Japanese instruction sheet was peeled from the inner-side of the cabinet and stuck to the top of the cabinet. I suppose the operator didn't want to "confuse Americans?":
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/Starblade8.jpg)
After a few hours of cleaning, it's actually in much better shape than I anticipated:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/Starblade9.jpg)
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/Starblade11.jpg)
So - long road ahead. Especially electronically. Totally worth it! ;D
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That is the real Arcade spirit!!! :spaceace:
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MAKE SPACE FOR STARBLADE!!! The flyer says it all! ;D
Wooaww! The Japanese version is the coolest one! I'm jealous! :P They are really cool stickers and artworks on it... and what about the huge UGSF sticker! I'm in love! :-*
For a cockpit supposed to be dumped, it's in a very nice condition! Don't be shy to post a maximum of pictures of the beast, we don't have a lot of information about that Japanese model of the best space rail shooter ever done (except Galaxian3 of course, but both are from the same 'family') ;D
(oh, and by the way I recently scored an second Starblade [for parts only]...but it's an other story 'in the pipe' ::))
:spaceace: :spaceace: :spaceace:
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Thanks guys :)! Make space for Starblade indeed! :lol: (I look forward to your next Starblade thread, Bruno!)
I'm hoping to restore this as least invasively as possible. I don't think I'll wind up painting anything aside from the inner cabinet (remove the rust and shoot a clear coat plus some black overspray, as the original appears to be) and probably just the very top flat surface of the platform and the speaker grilles.
Some observations:
- Unlike the yellow models, it doesn't use the PC style power supply, but rather separate Sanken +5V 20A and +12V 2A switchers, which are still available in Japan.
- Is there no transformer in this cab? It's the first cab I've seen that doesn't use one - doesn't look like there is anything to connect to one, nor any signs there had been one.
- The Nanao MS8-25FAN3 is encased, so I imagine it has its own isolation transformer. Will take a closer look once I get it down.
- The secondary fuse on the monitor is blown. From what I've read online, this seems to indicate the HOT has failed. From what I've also read, folks have replaced the HOT only to power it back up and find the vertical deflection to have gone out, again blowing the HOT and fuse :'( Before I even try to replace the fuse, I'll check/replace:
EDIT: Glad I double checked my parts on my monitor - the schematic I could find was for the 26" model which has different parts!
Q533 (D1887/NTE2354)
Q901(C3306/NTE2308)
C332 on neckboard (10uf 250v)
R903 (330 Ohm)
R904 (68 Ohm)
Q401, Q402 (2SD1136/NTE375)
R433 (2.2k Ohm, 1/4w)
D431, D432 (1SS133/NTE519)
C537 (4.7uf 100V)
C433 (10uf 25v)
2A 20mm Fuse
- 100 Yen "coinage" insert from coin mech is missing.
- 2 oval coinage stickers seem to have been removed from the face of the coin door
- Coin door was pried open at some point :( I started to get this bent back into shape.
- One power supply has a capacitor rolling around inside of it and the other has crust on all the resistors.
- A few bolts around the cabinet are rusted/broken/missing, and will need to be replaced/drilled out.
- At least two bulbs in the rear area are burnt out, one is missing, but there were two spares in the bottom of the cabinet. I suspect the strobes are bad :D
I was able to cut the rear of the rusted backs of the screws from the PCB cage and remove the PCBs. I don't have high hopes, but they look to be in surprisingly nice shape:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladePCBCage.jpg)
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladePCBs.jpg)
I also removed the rear electronics door so that the inside can be sandblasted. I removed the fan (also had to cut the rear of 2 screws as they were so rusted :() This probably should be replaced :-X:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeFan.jpg)
I was also able to safely get the instructions off of the top of the cabinet and into a temporary (obviously ;)), proper position:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeInsuto.jpg)
Next I plan to sandblast the PCB cage and the inside of the rear door so I can start putting things back together and testing them out. I'll also start rebuilding the monitor, and I have two new switchers on the way.
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This will be a hell of a job, but every minute you spend on this, worth the hassle. :D
The pcbs look promising indeed, I guess those eproms are "factory missing".
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This will be a hell of a job, but every minute you spend on this, worth the hassle. :D
The pcbs look promising indeed, I guess those eproms are "factory missing".
Absolutely! :)
I believe those EPROMs are missing as designed, but I'm not 100% sure.
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Not too much new to report. I found all the monitor components I was looking for, did some small cleanup today and removed the coin box section for dis-assembly/de-rusting.
I used some naptha to remove the crusty sticker gunk that was all over the right hand side of the marquee (apologies for crummy before pic):
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeMarqueeCrud.jpg)
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeMarquee.jpg)
I have a question for the UGSF team, if they don't mind:
What is the safest way to remove the monitor from the unit? I see it suggested that 3 people help with assembly of the machine.
Thanks! :)
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You can have a look at this topic (https://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=1067.0) for some high resolution Starblade pcb pictures.
Arf, your pictures host is still unavailable! :-\ I can host your pictures if you want 8)
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You can have a look at this topic (https://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=1067.0) for some high resolution Starblade pcb pictures.
Arf, your pictures host is still unavailable! :-\ I can host your pictures if you want 8)
Wow, thanks! That will be very handy. I may take you up on the image hosting :)
Does anybody have a scan of the Nanao MS8-25 schematics? I can only find the MS8-26 and MS8-29 schematics which are different.
If not, would someone be able to confirm the value of R905 (towards flyback/rear transistor) and R530 (near control knobs)?
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I removed the wiring and internal brackets so that I could start attempting to grind the rust down on the inside of the cabinet:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeInnerRust.jpg)
Rust city!
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeRustyParts.jpg)
I had some assistance today and was able to get the monitor down from the cabinet.
The tube has a nice, dark tint (hard to tell from the flash):
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeMonitor.jpg)
While I had the help, we removed the canopy for cleaning:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeCanopyTimber.jpg)
Monitor chassis was removed:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeCRT.jpg)
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeChassis.jpg)
Cleaned (small, dry paintbrushes and occasionally disinfectant wipes) and some parts replaced:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeChassisCleaned.jpg)
Q901 and Q533 were indeed bad, and R905 R530 are crumbled and unmeasurable :( I've replaced a few of the other known trouble areas listed above.
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Anybody want to take a stab at these resistor values from these blurry pics I found online? ???
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/R530.jpg)(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/R530b.jpg)
R530 looks like it might be white, brown, red, gold?
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/R905.jpg)(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/R905b.jpg)
R905 red, brown, gray, gold? Or is there one more value to the left? ??? :?
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I scraped away with various wire brush drill attachments to remove the rust from the PCB door:
Before:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/Starblade7.jpg)
In progress:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeBackDoorRustRemoval.jpg)
Interior of back PCB door with fresh "overspray" paint job, original coin door paint job in foreground for reference:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladePCBDoorRestored.jpg)
Coin box frame:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeCoinBoxFrameBefore.jpg)
De-rusted and first coat. I ran out of paint!
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeCoinBoxFrame.jpg)
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Removed the upper monitor frame and cleaned up the surface area a bit (disinfectant wipes, followed by Novus 2. Will finish with Novus 1 once I replace my now empty bottle :lol:):
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeUpper.jpg)
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeUpperCleaned.jpg)
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeMonitorFrame.jpg)
I suppose this is corrosion on the metal monitor bezel and not some sort of starfield pattern :P:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeMonitorBezel.jpg)
Inside of the upper plastic:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeMarqueeInside.jpg)
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Thats hardcore cleaning and resto there ! :o
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Thats hardcore cleaning and resto there ! :o
Thanks, Etienne!
I scanned the coinage sticker that was in the bottom of the cabinet and thanks to a pic from a JAMMA+ member's trip to Japan, I was able to recreate the original stickers that were at some point removed from my door:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeCoinage.jpg)
I cleaned up the inside of the marquee plastic. Notice the "sun tan" from the florescent light:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeMarqueeInsideClean.jpg)
Ground-down and sprayed the monitor frame:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeMonitorFrameRestored.jpg)
With some help from my father in law, we were able to remove the remaining stuck screws and disassembled the PCB cage.
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladePCBEmptyCage.jpg)
PCB cage wood :'(:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladePCBWood.jpg)
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Great save!! And amazing hard work youre doing in bringing it back to life!!!! :spaceace:
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Fantastic work so far 8)
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Great save!! And amazing hard work youre doing in bringing it back to life!!!! :spaceace:
Fantastic work so far 8)
Thank you!! :)
More scraping away on the inside with various wire brush drill attachements/sanding. Starting to not look so scary! Have to keep the shopvac going to pull all the rust dust out of the cabinet while grinding it down :-X:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeInnerRust.jpg)
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeInsideRustCleanup.jpg)
Began polishing the posts (right side) with a damp rag and "Bar Keepers Friend":
(http://www.webstaurantstore.com/bar-keepers-friend-21-oz-all-purpose-cleaning-powder/bar-keepers-friend-21-oz-all-purpose-cleaning-powder.jpg)
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladePosts.jpg)
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More and more rust scraping! Afterwards, I put a coat of "Rust Converter" that is supposed to convert any residual rust into a primer. The lumps are taped off wire twists:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeRustConverter.jpg)
Mounted the monitor frame:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeMonitorFrameRestored2.jpg)
Found this inside of the machine. At first I thought it was foreign currency of some sort, but the material seems too flimsy. I suspect it's a token. Wonder if it came from this pachinko and slots place? http://www.p-world.co.jp/osaka/eight-one.htm
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeToken.jpg)
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Ok, all this rust stuff is getting boring! Cleaned up the PCB cage and installed a new power supply.
Temporarily staged everything inside, measured the voltages:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeTemporarySetup.jpg)
With the monitor disconnected, powered on aaand...
LEDs on the PCBs started flickering.
Sounded like a relay was latching.
Went around front and coined it up.
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeStartLit.jpg)
Not a bad sign! Pressed start. Nothing much. Start button to abort is flashing - pressed it again.
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeLitYoke.jpg)
Also not a bad sign! Yoke occasionally lighting up.
*GRDGRDGRGRD!*
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeFlash.jpg)
Seat shaker and one flash still work!
I wiggled the volume knob a bit, and "located enemy flagship commander..." :spaceace:
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I figured at this point I'd try out the monitor repairs I'd done.
Powered it up the Nanao MS8 and the tube briefly crackled with static and then it shut down. Hmm, didn't appear to blow the fuse which is good. Sounds like HV shutdown perhaps? Back to the drawing board.
Hmm. The Nanao monitor in Pole Position has the same video connector, doesn't it? Time to jumper a F1 race car to a UGSF issue space ship :D:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeJumper.jpg)
And...
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladePP.jpg)
:)
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladePPInGame.jpg)
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladePPTitle.jpg)
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Observations:
- Only one trigger works (oddly enough, right hand trigger). Didn't someone pull apart a keyboard fairly recently for those Omron switches? Anybody want to sell a few?
- Right hand Flashboy still works. Might buy a couple of those neons to replace the one in the left hand flash if I can't find another.
- Only the rear speakers seem to work at the moment. Front speakers seemed to be connected correctly. Adjusting the knobs inside the coin door didn't seem to help.
- Service button has more or less seemed to fall apart internally.
- Starblade is incredible!
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Hahaha, great solution, you really deserved it after this mission impossible. :spaceace:
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...and it works, wow :-* :-* :-*! Congratulation. :)
Regarding the Omron switches, I have original models for sale, I'll drop you a pm this evening.
Roger out!
:spaceace: :spaceace: :spaceace:
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...and it works, wow :-* :-* :-*! Congratulation. :)
Regarding the Omron switches, I have original models for sale, I'll drop you a pm this evening.
Roger out!
:spaceace: :spaceace: :spaceace:
let me know if this dont work out, i have still some keyboard switches left here ;)
https://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=2583.msg43925#msg43925
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Hahaha, great solution, you really deserved it after this mission impossible. :spaceace:
Thanks, Béla!
...and it works, wow :-* :-* :-*! Congratulation. :)
Regarding the Omron switches, I have original models for sale, I'll drop you a pm this evening.
Roger out!
:spaceace: :spaceace: :spaceace:
Fantastic! PM sent :)!
let me know if this dont work out, i have still some keyboard switches left here ;)
https://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=2583.msg43925#msg43925
MacGyver indeed! Thanks! :spaceace:
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I thought I'd take some time and re-visit the original Nanao MS8-25FAN3 monitor. Nanao chassis are seemingly known for cold solder joints. I went around and tidied up any that I found on the chassis and neckboard.
Plugged it in and:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeMonitorWorking1.jpg)
Yuck! But it works! :) :) Made a few adjustments:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeMonitorWorking2.jpg)
Set up a quick and dirty mirror so I could play my first game on this machine :spaceace:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeMonitorWorking3.jpg)
Observations:
- There is some vertical jitter to the image which sounds familiar so I'll go consult various Nanao tech threads. Really, I need to do a cap kit.
- Also, you can "hear" the HV, much like vector "chatter" that decreases/increases with the brightness. I turned off the lights and didn't see any arcing, but I'll have to investigate this more. :?
- Remote degauss button inside the coin door doesn't work. The cable is plugged into the chassis, so the switch may be shot, like the service button above it.
- There is some "interference" like noise in the image, which also occurred while plugged into the monitor in Pole Position. I tried unplugging the fan, but the interference remained.
Non-Monitor: A spring seems to be missing from the yoke. It tilts up when in resting position. EDIT: Looking at pics, this may be as designed. Still have yet to open it up.
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I poked around in the test menu and found out that the Left and Right triggers still work - neat! There were two wires hacked into the harness and going up separately into the yoke - I'm assuming it was an incorrect attempt at a fix for the thumb buttons since everything else about the yoke works without the two added wires.
I also enabled the ADS menu. I'm guessing this could be corrupt data after all this time, or perhaps only for the time it was enabled. Judging from the screen burn, it's been on longer than that ;):
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeADSMenu.jpg)
Other observations: I beat the high scores but didn't get to put my name in? The high score table appears to be the default scores.
Coin door as it arrived:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeBentCoinDoor.jpg)
Straightened up the coin door a bit. Still pretty tired looking:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeCoinDoorWithoutStickers.jpg)
A little sprucing up...and...still pretty tired looking ;D :
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeCoinDoorWithStickers.jpg)
I put in a ¥100 mech, but the spring for the red insert is missing.
Decided to try a bit of cleaning on the mat:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeMat.jpg)
Is that the original color then? :o :D
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeMat2.jpg)
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Wow man!A japanese Starblade! This is huge! :o
Congrats for all the good work!
:spaceace:
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Amazing work, seems like the baby starts to get alive. ;)
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Other observations: I beat the high scores but didn't get to put my name in? The high score table appears to be the default scores.
Is far as I can see, you can only put your name at the end of the game, when the last boss is destroyed! But, it requires a lot of credits to finish the game (at least, I speak for me ;D). But once you put your name, you are in the high score table.
I use play it with a limit of 3 credits (continue play)... which is leading me (sometime) to the surface planet, but after that, it's a real nightmare! :ghost:
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Wow man!A japanese Starblade! This is huge! :o
Congrats for all the good work!
:spaceace:
Thank you :) :)!
Amazing work, seems like the baby starts to get alive. ;)
Thank you :) :)!
Other observations: I beat the high scores but didn't get to put my name in? The high score table appears to be the default scores.
Is far as I can see, you can only put your name at the end of the game, when the last boss is destroyed! But, it requires a lot of credits to finish the game (at least, I speak for me ;D). But once you put your name, you are in the high score table.
I use play it with a limit of 3 credits (continue play)... which is leading me (sometime) to the surface planet, but after that, it's a real nightmare! :ghost:
Ahh okay, that makes sense, thanks! I did a similar thing with Space Harrier where I try to see how far I can make it on one credit only :D I'll probably do the same with the limitation you set with Starblade.
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I took note of the capacitors on the chassis and replaced the ones I could find locally.
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/MonitorCapacitors.jpg)
This seemed to take care of the "shaking" issue!
The continuity on the degauss button checked out okay. I re-flowed the solder joint on the degauss coil connector, but there still seems to be an issue somewhere.
I picked up a few new carriage bolts and nuts, which of course, have the size/rating stamped into the head that will need to be ground down. I'll paint these black like the originals, but I'll have to wait a bit until the weather clears up.
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeCanopyPanel.jpg)
Usually I try to keep every possible original piece I can, but as you see :'(:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeRustyBolt.jpg)
Looks like it came off of a railroad track! For now the panel at least won't drop onto the players head :D!
I checked the front speakers and couldn't get an ohm reading. Can't imagine why:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeRustySpeaker.jpg)
Oddly enough this is my second Namco cockpit with bad front speakers. I don't think I've ever come across a bad speaker in another game before. These, of course, have been my most rusty games thus far ;D!
I temporarily hooked in a speaker from a Nintendo cab.
UWA! :spaceace: So much better! Need to get some new speakers - front sound amp/generation works fine :)
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:)
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeWorking1.jpg)
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeWorking2.jpg)
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeVideo.jpg) (http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeVideo.AVI)
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WOW this Has seen some moist !!!
Love the machine.....does it have metric hardware ? I assume so since its Japanese ?
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That's what I call save of the decade, I think most of us wouldn't have the courage to start a resto like this! :D
Respect!!! :spaceace: :spaceace: :spaceace:
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WOW this Has seen some moist !!!
Love the machine.....does it have metric hardware ? I assume so since its Japanese ?
Thanks! Yep, metric hardware. Standard screws, hex bolts and such aren't too hard to find here in the US in metric, but the metric carriage bolts and security Torx screws I'll probably have to special order somewhere. In the mean time, I used SAE carriage bolts since the ones that needed to be replaced only thread into a separate nut.
That's what I call save of the decade, I think most of us wouldn't have the courage to start a resto like this! :D
Respect!!! :spaceace: :spaceace: :spaceace:
Thank you, Béla! :)
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Getting metric stuff in the US is a lot easier than the other way around (and rightfully so, the US is the last to keep using that *^%#£+*$? imperial system....)
Have a look at http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/ If you need Any special (small) stuff. I got all the imperial stuff for my SW yoke from them. They ship worldwide at Very reasonable rates....If they dont have What you are looking for ask them, they added a part that I requested too...
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Getting metric stuff in the US is a lot easier than the other way around (and rightfully so, the US is the last to keep using that *^%#£+*$? imperial system....)
Have a look at http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/ If you need Any special (small) stuff. I got all the imperial stuff for my SW yoke from them. They ship worldwide at Very reasonable rates....If they dont have What you are looking for ask them, they added a part that I requested too...
Very cool, thanks for the link! I'll check them out.
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I decided to clean up the control panel area a bit more. Earlier I had mentioned two wires hacked into the harness that went up into the yoke, which I had assumed were to link the fire buttons together. I was partially correct!
Upon opening the yoke I could see where the wires went under the handles. I attempted to pull the loose harness-side wires up through the shaft when it pulled apart, revealing a different color wire. I tried to see where the other side went and noticed this:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeRapidFire1.jpg)
If I wiggled on this side of the wire, I could feel it tugging on something rattling inside of the control panel.
I decided to remove the plastic shell on the CP, and found this:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeRapidFire2.jpg)
Based on the timer chip, it appears to be a home-brew adjustable rapid-fire circuit! Evidently, this was placed inside of the machine while still in Japan. I love finding little things like this. Unfortunately, I think I prefer Starblade without rapid fire:
連射機能を使用: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BhwlVjebl9s#t=1m26s (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BhwlVjebl9s#t=1m26s)
Not entirely sure how to handle this just yet. Seems an inexperienced pilot must have backed Geosword into something at one point :lol::
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeRearPlasticDamage.jpg)
It's possible a mold could be made of the "post cone" from the other side, however the main separate section below would be reversed compared to the other side. I would probably need to create a mirror image and make a mold from that.
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Recieved a package from Belgium today:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeOmron.jpg)
Thanks, Bruno! :spaceace:
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The world famous Omron BG3 switches. :D
Used to replace all of them in my Vindicators part 2.
I'm really sad that I sold that one. :-[
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Very cool!
I have a box somewhere of parts of a parted out Jap Starblade. Have a lot of the plastics and other bits IIRC.
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:o the most incredible part is that the board pcb didnt corrupt or got rusty and ran right away
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Very cool!
I have a box somewhere of parts of a parted out Jap Starblade. Have a lot of the plastics and other bits IIRC.
Thanks! Oh awesome, I'll shoot you an e-mail :).
:o the most incredible part is that the board pcb didnt corrupt or got rusty and ran right away
I couldn't believe it either, considering the sad shape of the PCB cage!
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:o the most incredible part is that the board pcb didnt corrupt or got rusty and ran right away
Yeah that is in fact pretty damn amazing !
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:o the most incredible part is that the board pcb didnt corrupt or got rusty and ran right away
Not really... it's made by Namco, the best arcade game company! ;D
:spaceace:
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:o the most incredible part is that the board pcb didnt corrupt or got rusty and ran right away
Not really... it's made by Namco, the best arcade game company! ;D
:spaceace:
:lol:
As has been typical with the machine so far, almost every piece has at least one screw rusted in place. The back plastic panel was no different. Unfortunately in these situations it's tricky to use a Dremmel type tool as the last thing we want to do is damage the plastic. Luckily the stuck screw on the bottom had enough open space around it that this wasn't an issue. A flat-head type cut was made into the screw and it was STILL incredibly hard to turn and remove!
Inside, I was surprised to see that the asymmetrical-axis motor that generates the "shake" effect was actually mounted in the portion of the seat against your back. That would explain why it's so jarring on the "max hit"! :o
From here I was able to access the rear of the tee nuts on the wood of the seat structure that hold the plastic side panels to the seat. I applied some lubricant in there to help dislodge some of the rust. It's necessary to remove these panels to gain access to three hefty bolts under the plastic on either side that hold the entire seat to the frame. We need to do this in order to gain access to the "floor" of the main metal structure so that it can be refinished.
The humorous thing is on the top canopy, facing the rear of the machine, the left hand side bolts were rusty while the right side was in good shape. The opposite is true of the seat! 4 screws on the right side plastic are rusted solidly in place. Luckily, the left side came apart with no issues.
I again applied lubricant to the rear of the 3 large bolts to hopefully prevent a bolt from snapping. The bolts were removed pretty easily with a ratchet, albeit "crunchily." :D I lubricated the ends of the bolts and ran them back through the nuts to clean up the threading.
I removed the cushion assemblies from the seat in order to give them a good cleaning, and inspect how they were constructed. Unfortunately, one hex bolt (again!) in both the rear and bottom section broke upon removal. The back of the seat reveals the exact same construction methods as the Pole Position seat :spaceace: :spaceace:
Unfortunately, I'll need to come back to the remaining stuck screws on the side another day. Two are in a tight plastic channel with no room for error. Any ideas what the best way to approach this is? I'm thinking drilling through the head of the screw, taking time making sure not to heat up the head in the process.
I did remove the rusty speaker grille (with, you guessed it, one rusted screw!!) from the rear which will need to be repainted. Upon closer inspection, only one of the rear speakers actually works! New set of speakers all around then :'(.
Ah yes, and I forgot my camera today. Boring text for now ;D!
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I now have 1/2 of the stuck screws on the right hand seat freed up.
Here is a shot of the seat without the cushions/grilles. The metal plate acts as support for the motor mounted on the rear.
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeUnderSeat.jpg)
And a shot of the other side of the seat with the side plastic removed, and a glimpse of the motor:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeOpenSeat.jpg)
I opened up the yoke handles to replace the broken switches. I debated on whether or not to replace the working switches. I figured, since I had it apart, I'd go ahead and do so. Here's how it had been hooked up with the rapid fire circuit - one wire had been removed from the thumb switches and chained to the trigger switches, with an additional wire to go to the rapid fire circuit.
There was even a small pile of rust inside the handles :o. The left-handle had a bit of "home brewery" done to the inside - tape around the metal support and solder rounded up along the screw hole supports seemingly to act as a wedge of some sort.
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeInsideYoke.jpg)
Cleaned this all up, and now all fire buttons work and I can access all areas of the test menu :).
I do have a question regarding the flasher controller. I noticed only one relay is kicking in when the FlashBoy fires. Currently only the right one fires, but only one of two relay on the PCB clicks. I figured one might engage the motor, but I don't see any activity on the PCB when the motor is engaged. Are each of the FlashBoys controlled independently or do they operate off of the same circuit? I assume on the same circuit, but I haven't tried moving the bulbs around just yet to see if there's a change.
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Any chance you might have the manual as well for this one?
Looks like the Japanese version has a couple more lights located in the rear of the cabinet, plus the illuminated start button. I'm wondering if I might be able to wire them into the US version as well. Not sure if they are active in the software or not, won't know until I can try to wire them up.
-Hans
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Any chance you might have the manual as well for this one?
Looks like the Japanese version has a couple more lights located in the rear of the cabinet, plus the illuminated start button. I'm wondering if I might be able to wire them into the US version as well. Not sure if they are active in the software or not, won't know until I can try to wire them up.
-Hans
Hi Hans-
I unfortunately don't have the manual for this (but would love to buy one of anybody has one :)).
The start button lamp is software controlled and should be tappable as I believe the hardware is the same between versions (the ROMs are different but I imagine the functionality is the same).
There is an option to test the top rear lamps in the test menu, but I believe they're hard wired to 100V (I can confirm this for sure later) so toggling the option doesn't seem to make a difference. Although this could also mean something is stuck on the hardware if they're not supposed to be lit all the time :D
Hope that helps!
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Thanks for bringing this up, Hans.
I double checked the wiring and the rear canopy bulbs are hooked into the small PCB that drives the flashers, and appear to be "triggerable" from the test menu. There are slots for two sockets on either side of the canopy, but only one on either side currently work (100V 20W bulbs). Even with only half the bulbs, it seems too warm in there when lit all the time to be as designed.
I'll take closer look at the PCB and see if there might not be a bad transistor on it.
Can anyone confirm how the rear canopy lights are supposed to operate? Thanks!
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Thanks for bringing this up, Hans.
I double checked the wiring and the rear canopy bulbs are hooked into the small PCB that drives the flashers, and appear to be "triggerable" from the test menu. There are slots for two sockets on either side of the canopy, but only one on either side currently work (100V 20W bulbs). Even with only half the bulbs, it seems too warm in there when lit all the time to be as designed.
I'll take closer look at the PCB and see if there might not be a bad transistor on it.
Can anyone confirm how the rear canopy lights are supposed to operate? Thanks!
Hmmmm, if heat is a problem, perhaps LED's are a solution to it. I wonder if that's the reason they removed the lamps in the original production run.
-Hans
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Thanks for bringing this up, Hans.
I double checked the wiring and the rear canopy bulbs are hooked into the small PCB that drives the flashers, and appear to be "triggerable" from the test menu. There are slots for two sockets on either side of the canopy, but only one on either side currently work (100V 20W bulbs). Even with only half the bulbs, it seems too warm in there when lit all the time to be as designed.
I'll take closer look at the PCB and see if there might not be a bad transistor on it.
Can anyone confirm how the rear canopy lights are supposed to operate? Thanks!
Hmmmm, if heat is a problem, perhaps LED's are a solution to it. I wonder if that's the reason they removed the lamps in the original production run.
-Hans
Yeah, that could certainly explain why they were removed from the US machines. I took a look at the manual that Bruno scanned from the Namco-America version, and it looks like the wiring diagram mostly was left over from the JP version (100V running the monitor, remote degauss, etc).
Looking where the orange/green wires come from the "DRIVE PCB" assembly they appear to terminate at the fluorescent light assembly, which would imply that the lights don't actually change state during the game. I'll confirm physically on my machine whether or not the rear bulbs are simply tied into the fluorescent fixture wiring. If this is the case, I wonder if the software implementation, if any, for the rear lights still works?
It looks like there are a few LED options available with the BA15d base :).
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Today I did some troubleshooting and made a few observations:
- The rear canopy 100V bulbs are indeed wired into the same circuit as the 100V florescent light, meaning they aren't animated, but static.
- The rear speakers actually do work. However, there seems to be an issue with the rear amp circuit, causing the rear audio to be tinny and quiet.
- I'll be darned, the left FlashBoy still works! I tested it in the right bulb's position and it worked with no issue. There is apparently an issue with the circuit on the DRIVE PCB that triggers the left FlashBoy.
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I traced the left FlashBoy issue down to a dirty/corroded relay on the DRIVE PCB. Opened it up and cleaned it with bits of a business card and now both flashers are working. :)
EDIT: The sound design when attacking the core of the Octopus is @#$ing incredible :o!
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Well done Steve, Xmas time is ideal for taking care of our babies. :D
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Well done Steve, Xmas time is ideal for taking care of our babies. :D
:D :D Indeed!
It appears the high scores aren't saving once entered and powered down. I believe there's a HN58C65P EEPROM on one of the PCBs, which I imagine would hold the scores? The settings seem to be holding fine, however.
This assumes, of course, that it retains the high scores. That would be brutal if not!! :o
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I made some good progress today disassembling the seat and seat/control rail assembly.
The most ideal way to do this would be to remove the monitor and canopy, and disassemble from there. Since this requires about 3 people to do it safely, I decided to disassemble what I could, since most of the remaining fasteners were rusty anyway.
I was able to get the seat off, finally. Some rusted out tee-nuts will need to be replaced, and the delamination at the rear base of the seat will be re-glued and clamped.
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/Seat.jpg)
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/SeatWaterDamage.jpg)
This left the rail/control portion which is attached via three posts (two bolts each), two near the front and one near the back. The issue disassembling this way is the assembly can't be removed as the rear wouldn't provide enough clearance. However, the rear post is attached via a removable plate with two bolts that once removed, would give us proper clearance.
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/SeatRail.jpg)
These, happened to be thoroughly stuck! I had tried Allen bits on a ratchet, Allen bits with a wrench but no luck. I was finally able to find an Allen Wrench large enough (I believe it was M10) and had to step on it to finally get enough torque to loosen them! :o
However, the assembly came off quite easily and gained me access to the remaining rust (cardboard to prevent any scratching while removing):
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/SeatRailDetatched.jpg)
The best part was, I found this Sumo Wrestler inside of the wiring channel:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/SumoWeb.jpg)
Officially the neatest thing I've found inside of a cabinet :)!
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Lol, I'm just wondering how old this sumo guy could be. ;D
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The best part was, I found this Sumo Wrestler inside of the wiring channel:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/SumoWeb.jpg)
Officially the neatest thing I've found inside of a cabinet :)!
Keep it! An integral part of your Starblade history now! ;)
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It appears the high scores aren't saving once entered and powered down. I believe there's a HN58C65P EEPROM on one of the PCBs, which I imagine would hold the scores? The settings seem to be holding fine, however.
This assumes, of course, that it retains the high scores. That would be brutal if not!! :o
Unfortunately, the scores are not saved on Starblade... so prepare a pen and a shit of paper close to your cockpit for writing scores manually... :-\
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... so prepare a pen and a shit of paper close to your cockpit for writing scores manually... :-\
[cannot resistmode on]
LOL ;D ;D ;D
(http://cdn.webshopapp.com/f/z12nd1/aanbieding-toiletrol-houder-en-toiletborstelhouder.jpg)
[cannot resistmode off]
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Lol, I'm just wondering how old this sumo guy could be. ;D
Yeah! Even he had rust on him! He appears to be hand made, might have been some UFO/redemption prize.
Keep it! An integral part of your Starblade history now! ;)
Unfortunately, the scores are not saved on Starblade... so prepare a pen and a shit of paper close to your cockpit for writing scores manually... :-\
Yep!! I cleaned him up a little bit and he will be a charm on board the Geosword :).
That is brutal about the high scores!! Guess that explains why JIN always has the high scores on video clips I've seen :D.
... so prepare a pen and a shit of paper close to your cockpit for writing scores manually... :-\
[cannot resistmode on]
LOL ;D ;D ;D
[cannot resistmode off]
:lol:
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When I get a chance i'll find the boxes I have of the Jap Starblade parts - i'll try and send you an email - also email me to remind me. They are in the deepest darkest mountains of Mordor atm.
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When I get a chance i'll find the boxes I have of the Jap Starblade parts - i'll try and send you an email - also email me to remind me. They are in the deepest darkest mountains of Mordor atm.
Thanks! I'll shoot you another e-mail. I keep thinking of other Starblade odds and ends I might need if you have 'em.
I skimmed some old posts, and noticed in this Galaxian3 GH-28 vid: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fU4K4teK5kE (source: http://www.nicovideo.jp/watch/sm14543549), VERY briefly at 8:12 you can see a row of Starblade machines on the left, and the lights on top do indeed flash. I need to do some more investigation on that DRIVE PCB :oops: (I corrected my previous post).
This does make sense as the type of bulb in there isn't rated for many hours. I'm guessing it's a problematic transistor or triac, much like the common APB lighting failures?
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I did some troubleshooting on the "DRIVE PCB" and found that SSR2's (Solid State Relay, S101S03) AC outputs were internally shorted, causing AC to always to be driving the lamps.
R2 (16k Ohm) was also bad, and I'm not entirely sure but IC6 (PC900V Photocoupler) seems to test a bit differently than the same chip at IC13.
Now to find an equivalent to S101S03. I would think any variable voltage in/1.5A/125V AC out SSR would work? (NOTE: The S101S03 is recommended for operating circuits without zero crossing.)
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeSSR.jpg)
Seat before and after gluing and clamping:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/SeatWaterDamage.jpg) (http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeRepairedWaterDamage.jpg)
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It looks like that particular part is discontinued, but sharp does still make an S101S05F. No idea if compatible or not, wouldn't risk it without a datasheet comparison.
Having a beast of a time trying to find a datasheet for the S101S05F, and I don't want to 'create an account' at sharpsma.com to view from their library.
You could possibly try contacting their sales reps to see if they can send you the old datasheets.
-Hans
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It looks like that particular part is discontinued, but sharp does still make an S101S05F. No idea if compatible or not, wouldn't risk it without a datasheet comparison.
Having a beast of a time trying to find a datasheet for the S101S05F, and I don't want to 'create an account' at sharpsma.com to view from their library.
You could possibly try contacting their sales reps to see if they can send you the old datasheets.
-Hans
Good idea! The other SSR on the PCB is a S101SO4. I can check to see what kind of input voltage the other solid state relay on the PCB is getting, and compare to what gets fed to this relay. It looks like the NTE RS1-D30 should work, accepts 3-24VDC input and up to 280VAC 3A out, and is dimensionally similar to the Sharp part.
I recieved new speakers and a fan from HAPP today. I opened the old fan and oiled it several times, but it's still way too noisy :(.
I'll keep the original (I keep everything I remove from a game! Well...except dirt, mouse poo, etc. :)), but will put the new one in.
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D'oh, looked at the datasheet again, the measurements for the NTE SSR were in inches not cm...making it too big :(
Something in the Panasonic AQG series may work.
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(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeWorkingLights.jpg) (http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeWorkingLightsNew.mov)
(Video Link)
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Link does not work for me. :-\
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You have to Dload it, and use VLC player to..... play it ;)
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You have to Dload it, and use VLC player to..... play it ;)
Thanks M. ;)
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(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeWorkingLights.jpg) (http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeWorkingLightsNew.mov)
(Video Link)
Oops, tried a different codec this time :)
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Upper animated lights are now working. I replaced the relay, PC900V and a 16k resistor in the circuit.
Re-capped the audio amp PCB and now have good sound out of all speakers :).
I believe all the electronics/mechanical areas are now working as they originally did. Next is to focus more on the cosmetics.
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:spaceace: :spaceace: :spaceace:
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I've unfortunately come to the conclusion that I won't have any time to work on the cosmetics of this machine any time soon, so for the time being I've reassembled it.
It seems there's a short somewhere on the Audio Amp. Occasionally the game will shut down, with a repeating "thump" noise coming from the rear speakers. The speaker cones physically move when this occurs :o If I unplug the rear speakers, or unplug the amp completely, all is well. More investigation to be done!
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I mentioned over in HHaase's Starblade thread that I'm getting noticeable interference in the monitor image.
I checked through the wiring and saw that not only does the voltage for the monitor ride up with the same group of wires, but so do the Flashboy and rear light bulbs' power.
I measured to each connector of the entire video harness, and the resistance was far lower than I would have expected (there's a video connector on one of the PCBs to a connector on another PCB, then to the edge connector, to a filterboard, to the main harness, to a connector in the middle of the cabinet, to a connector at the top of the cabinet to a connector on the side of the chassis finally going to the connector on the monitor chassis itself!!)
In the base of the cabinet, I disconnected the 100V going to these parts, and powered the monitor externally and voila - the monitor's image all around is GREATLY improved.
So now to think about how to remedy that.
And just for fun :lol::
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladePolePosition.jpg)
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Maybe try some ferrite choke beads on both sides of the 100v line?
-Hans
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Maybe try some ferrite choke beads on both sides of the 100v line?
-Hans
That's a great idea. Sounds likely to be the least intrusive solution as well.
Thanks!
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I went to the local surplus electronics store and they surprisingly had a pretty good selection of clip-on ferrite beads in various sizes:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeFerrites.jpg)
I tried them in various locations but surprisingly they didn't seem to make a difference.
Here is a picture of what the interference looks like:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Gauntlet/StarbladeInterference.jpg)
As a note, with no video connector plugged in, or with a PCB plugged in remotely, I don't get the interference so it definitely seems to follow the internal video cable.
I did manage to find another PCB cage since the wood in the original was pretty rotted. Amazing how far this has come:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/Starblade7.jpg)(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Gauntlet/StarbladeNewPCBCage.jpg)
Co-pilot: ;D
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Gauntlet/StarbladeSumoWingman.jpg)
Some de-rusting to be done yet on bolts and such:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/Starblade3.jpg)
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Gauntlet/StarbladeController.jpg)
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Gauntlet/StarbladeSeatDetail.jpg)
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Last weekend I tested a bit more on the sound amp (which would "pulse" with a thudding noise, particularly in the rear speakers).
One amp chip (LM-???? - need to check again) appears to be operating around 3.5V and the other, identical chip is operating at around 5V. The sound board is outputting a consistent 5V out to the speakers which can't be right. Until I rig up a connector to test the sound amp out of the cabinet, I have disconnected it.
My father-in-law helped me straighten out the coin door and box a bit more:
As it arrived (too bad whomever did this tried to break into the wrong part! >:( - torqued so hard the side of the box was bend inward)
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeBentCoinDoor.jpg)
and as it stands now:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeCoinDoorPoundedOut.jpg)
Today, I received two OEM Sanken Power Supplies from Japan (One for +5 and the other for +12V, per the original setup):
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeOEMPSU.jpg)
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeOEMPSU2.jpg)
:D
Below, you can see my original next to the new unit:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeOEMPSU3.jpg)
Mounted and ready to go:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeOEMPSU4.jpg)
vrAx hit the nail on the head over in HHaase's thread. Though on paper the new standard switching power supplies I used should have worked, with the OEM power supplies I now get no trace of interference on the monitor :spaceace:
Before:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Gauntlet/StarbladeInterference.jpg)
After:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/Starblade/StarbladeNoFuzz.jpg)
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Those lm chips tend to get bad. Replace it. When you remove the chip do you then get 5v on the board?