Dragon's Lair Fans - Arcade Lifestyle
General Chat => Arcade Lifestyle => Topic started by: level42 on April 25, 2011, 10:46:39 PM
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Yes people slow and funky that was Rock your Baby (http://youtu.be/arxhW1RgDDo) but not for Asterock !
The more I say it, the weirder that name sounds....Aste-rock....It's like, saying a word and certainly taking a wrong exit.....WTF.....oooh well....
:)
So, following the final repair (see the Technical Section) in the electronics of this wonderful machine I decided to fully strip to machine to give it an extreme cleaning inside and out.
While working on this cab it was fun to discover some of the differences between European and US (or Irish ;)) cabs. Some of them are definitely better, some worse....I'll comment along the way.... Of course the first thing is that everything is METRIC THANK GOD ! :D
Well everything......of course not, the G05-802 monitor is still a Canadian product and Canada hadn't switched to metric then.... Anyway let's go:
First I removed the marquee. It's glass (good !). Ever since my small disaster with the Berzerk bezel I'm a bit scared of cleaning stuff too rigorously. So I carefully started with still some "bootleg" Glassex. Works great....needs pretty firm toweling to get the yukkie nicotine and whatever that may be away, but it cleans up very nicely. The paint is VERY sturdy, no problems at all.
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6685/web.jpg?ver=13037635380001)
Turned out minty !
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6689/web.jpg?ver=13037636820001)
Next I removed the TL-panel. Nice, a decent FIXTURE !! and a generally available tube size, woohoo +1 for the Euro cab.
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6694/web.jpg?ver=13037634350001)
Already kinda' suspected there would be a Philips tube in there, but "Made in Japan" ?? Weird.....they were still Made in Holland then too (even now)that would be closer to Italy, but whatever....of course the tube is bust.
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6684/web.jpg?ver=13037634410001)
I'll pick up a new tube tomorrow. I've learned to use COOL white in marquees, the colors are fresher with a COOL white tube. Not unimportant: they are also cheaper.
Now, of course, right behind the TL panel was the speaker. I had already some thought about why the sound was so bad, and it turned out I was right. Here's the speaker cover....but what are those brown paper-like things....?
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6690/web.jpg?ver=13037634720001)
Yuppppp, just like I thought: the conus edge it completely disintegrated:
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6691/web.jpg?ver=13037634140001)
End Of Line for this baby I'm afraid....
Now, I've got a spare one from the SW cockpit, but it's a bit bigger:
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6707/web.jpg?ver=13037635320001)
Now mind you ! This certainly doesn't mean it's also BETTER. The Asterock speaker was actually HEAVIER then the Atari one. The magnet was really big, so the quality was probably not THAT bad....
With some luck I can fit the Atari speaker, the original was bolted in and I could easily remove them. I can use some small screw from the top to fix the Atari speaker.
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The speaker grill. Plastic and "home made" !
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6692/web.jpg?ver=13037635110001)
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6693/web.jpg?ver=13037635920001)
They were efficient guys in Torino though, they used the same grill as vent covers:
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6715/web.jpg?ver=13037636140001)
No resto-thread is complete without some really dirty pics. First I'd thought to leave the plastic vent-inlets (at the bottom) and pulling grips (at the top) (again,the same plastics doubling in function) in there and just vacuum them, but I though, hardcore is hardcore, so out they go !
Good decision:
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6722/web.jpg?ver=13037633700001)
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6723/web.jpg?ver=13037635490001)
Those two were the inlets on the lower area, so if anyone doubts the "chimney" system of cooling in a cab works.....you bet !
Let's open the CP. That very weird, but OHH-SO smart CP. Because think about it: WHAT is the thing that ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS...(yes, ALWAYS) needs to be replaced because of cigarette burns ? Indeed the CPO !!!
So those smart Italians thought: how can we prevent that ? How can we make sure, that when Level42 buys this cab for his collection and wants to "restore" it, he doesn't have to scan in the CP, have several people from all over the globe work on the artwork and have it printed somewhere, all in all taking about 3 years to finish.....
Ahhhhaaaaa smart thinking guys ! And Muchas Gracias !!! (O fuck, that's Spanish) GRAZIE MILLE SIGNORI !!
Because although it may be a WEIRD idea to double the CP as an ashtray (it really isn't one, because the ashes simply fall on the floor, but still) but it WORKED great.
Although of course it got as dirty as the average smokers lungs after 31 years, contraty to those lungs, we _can_ clean those CP parts.
By the way, the brilliancy of the CP, is not just that ashtray idea, the "folding in" of the buttons is another extremely smart idea, and after having played it quite a few times now, I can safely say that it TOTALLY beats the original Atari CP. +2 for the Euro machine !
OF course, there is even a THIRD big PRO about this CP set-up, it saves LOADS of useless space like needed on the DEEEEEEEP original CP. +3 for the Bootleg !!
Sooo, I hear you say, is it true, can this be Asteroids heaven ? Well....of course, just as our famous football GOD always says: with every advantage, there is a disadvantage.
Being the Hyperspace button.
OK, let's face it, which moron thought that it was a wise idea to make a completely different and WAY too small button the Hyperspace ? OK, I'm the first to admit that I am ALWAYS too late with Hyperspace anyway, but this sure isn't helping.
The worst thing about it though, is it's position. I mean, it's there. On top. All the other buttons are below....so how on earth are you supposed to operate the damn thing, with your......uhm......NOSE ??? ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
OK, so enough talk, you want pics. Through the coin-door I have to unscrew two wingnuts (maybe not as comfortable as latches, but still better then regular nuts as on the Puckman bootleg) and the CP opens:
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6700/web.jpg?ver=13037634800001)
Thank God, leaf buttons for all the important stuff, and I really like the flashy Atari vulcano buttons in the front (not pictured here).
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6701/web.jpg?ver=13037635570001)
Removed the CP and here we see the "fall-through" for the ashes.
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6703/web.jpg?ver=13037634890001)
Remove that plate and.......eeeuuuwww...:
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6704/web.jpg?ver=13037633640001)
There should be this text on every cigarette package:
WARNING: SMOKING CAUSES SERIOUS DAMAGE TO YOUR ARCADE GAMES
I'm very sure everybody will quite when they read that :)
Anyway, here's 31 years of smoking by an Asterock, the inside of the "cover plate".
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6706/web.jpg?ver=13037633900001)
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So, I got out the bootleg Magic Eraser sponges, and did my very best:
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6716/web.jpg?ver=13037634620001)
Without power tools, this is good as it gets. I'm happy.
Of course I had removed the coin door. The coin-door looks very nice, I like the kind of vinyl look that it has. I'm also not annoyed by the sticker at all, I think it's fine there, it's still in nice shape, and the Seeburg and Bally logo just add a bit to the "real deal feel".
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6695/web.jpg?ver=13037635770001)
The bad thing though, was that the coin door was hanging half-way (well not that bad) out of the cabinet. When I removed it, I had to unscrew only 1 bolt !
The reason was clear when I turned it over:
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6696/web.jpg?ver=13037633810001)
Take a good look, and you will see that the threaded studs are all broken off, but one. This means that either the door was vandalized (unlikely, there are no dents or damage on the front) OR the studs were welded in buy a guy who had previously been working in the Alfasud factory.....(I think the US guys won't get this one..... ;D)
Here you see one of the spots were a stud used to be. I found two of them in the cab....still including nuts...
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6697/web.jpg?ver=13037636420001)
I'm no expert, but this looks like poor welding to me.
Anyway, this causes a serious problem: How am I going to fix that ? I'm thinking about using a "cold-welding" method, since real welding is out of the question because that would damage the front side.
Anyway, there are some interesting details about this rather weird and definitely rare coin door:
First: the lamps:
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6698/web.jpg?ver=13037634470001)
Pretty weird set-up, as if the lamps never would have to be changed.I haven't checked if they're still working (too bright sunlight :P)
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Looks like you are going to need Locktite for that coindoor bolts:
(http://www.loctiteproducts.com/img/products/big/sg_ug_cntrl.png) (http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/4/3/sg_ug_cntrl/overview/Loctite-Super-Glue-ULTRA-Gel-Control.htm)
Clickpic.
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I was more thinking about this:
http://jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php
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....and bought it here:
http://cgi.ebay.nl/JB-WELD-WORLDS-FINEST-COLD-WELD-2-X-28-4G-/250800962235?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3a64e6fabb#ht_1369wt_1141
There were some guys on Marktplaats but they were more expensive even without shipping...
If all customer reviews are true this should be some kind of miracle stuff ;)
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I just had a good look at the CP (can't do much more, home sick). Clearly the left and right buttons are still the original one's. The one's on the right "Jet" & "Fire" are clearly not original, the poor leafs are bent WAAYYY to much....the buttons are longer. But you can already see the difference from the top. The left one's have thicker edges and smaller buttons compared to the right two.
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6701/web.jpg?ver=13037635570001)
But there's more. The P1 & P2 buttons are different too ! P1 is a really big switch on the inside. The top cover (the lens) is rounded. The one on the P2 looks exactly like a regular Atari cone button, with a "sharp" edge and flat top on the lense, and a different cone.
Now, I actually think the P1 is the original one. I think this because the Hyperspace button is exactly the same, even though that one is not lit.
It'll be interesting to find out what kind of switches the originals are exactly, but I'll have to dissemble them and I really don't have the energy for that now...
I can still upload some pics from last weekend....
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Yes, this machine definitely was a good earner....
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6699/web.jpg?ver=13037634290001)
NSFW, naked pics coming up !
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6708/web.jpg?ver=13037636350001)
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6709/web.jpg?ver=13037636510001)
More dirty pics, the bottom with the PSU removed.
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6710/web.jpg?ver=13037635200001)
Very familiar PSU, now outside the cab. The bad thing is they probably had burning edge connectors on that PCB so decided to solder everything. Maybe a factory mod, maybe an operator mod. I think the first, because the edge "fingers" do not have any burn damage at all.
See those 5 big caps ? That's the Sidam solution instead of using a big single cap like the Big Blue. Makes sense IMHO.
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6712/web.jpg?ver=13037636290001)
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The board that carries the 2N3055 transistor plus the cooling body.
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6711/web.jpg?ver=13037636750001)
I checked again the loose staples. There is an impact mark on the wood so I guess they were shot correctly during production and thus the board must have come (made) loose later.
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6713/web.jpg?ver=13037635850001)
Anyway, let's fix this:
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6714/web.jpg?ver=13037635660001)
Let's get the bootleg Magical Erasers to work...
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6717/web.jpg?ver=13037636060001)
Not entirely white yet, but I have to be carefull, the paint is really coming off a bit if I work too hard....
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6720/web.jpg?ver=13037636930001)
Before:
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6718/web.jpg?ver=13037636660001)
After:
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6719/web.jpg?ver=13037634980001)
Notice the screening misalignment...
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Funny, this metal strip is between the coin door and the "kick" area" and it still has some of it's protective foil on there ! :)
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6725/web.jpg?ver=13037636570001)
Very nice after the Magic Eraser work, IMHO:
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6726/web.jpg?ver=13037634020001)
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Looking good andre !
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Yes I agree !! The machine is still in nice condition, very lucky about that. We're going to have to scan everything of course !! :)
The bezel is glass too. Very simple design, piece of cake for you ;) ;)
Of course the CPO still has some dirty parts/and some minor damage. The red/blue/white "blocks" on the front are worn on the top (from hands). Not sure if I would replace it when scanned/ repro-ed....maybe, maybe not....
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Found this CPO pic on Speleo's site:
(http://andysarcade.de/data/picseries/asterock/pic008.jpg)
Looks like originally all buttons were white, so I'll go for that too. They also look to be positioned really "flat" (what I like)....
My cab doesn't have this regretfully:
(http://andysarcade.de/data/picseries/asterock/pic013.jpg)
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Mmmm, this one DOES have an edge connector....
(http://andysarcade.de/data/picseries/asterock/pic019.jpg)
But this machine only had about 7000 games compared to over 40000 on mine :P
All those pics are from www.andysarcade.de (http://www.andysarcade.de) by the way !!!!
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One aspect I hadn't mentione before. The connectors.
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6696-20--20versie-202/web.jpg?ver=13037679330001)
I'm not really sure what kind of connectors these are, but they are GREAT !!!!
Compared to the usual AMP connectors used by f.i. Atari, which you can hardly get from eachother after so many years, these simply open VERY smoothly indeed. You simply press the "hooks" so you can release it and there is no huge force required as on the AMP's. Another +1 for the bootleg !!! ;D ;D
Another small, but handy detail: they used "clip-style" wire harness holders. So you don't have to cut any tie-raps to remove the wiring anywhere. Honestly there are some exceptions, but these look like retro-fits. It's great to be able to take out the wiring this way for cleaning of course ! :)
Yes, another +1 for the Asterock :)
Back to work, cleaned and checked out the fluorescent fixture:
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6728/web.jpg?ver=13040094020001)
I have to say that this looks very sturdy and up to European standards. I often find the way those were set-up in US cabs look rather clumsy, maybe not even electrically safe...
Also, nice to see a 220V balast for a change :P And it's in a nice isolation layer....also typical Euro I guess ?
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6727/web.jpg?ver=13040093920001)
Ah, now we're talking. The starter is Philips also, but from Holland this time. Look at that lovely late 70's orange color ;)
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6729/web.jpg?ver=13040093430001)
Both ballast and starter are still fine, already had tested another tube and it worked great.
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I have already a new tube here, but I will install it only when I re-assemble the entire cab.
On to the CP !
Removed all the buttons and wiring to clean it and of course SCAN it ! (Still with my old scanner Etienne)
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6734/web.jpg?ver=13040093610001)
Some detail shots:
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6737/web.jpg?ver=13040093060001)
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6736/web.jpg?ver=13040093510001)
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6738/web.jpg?ver=13040093180001)
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6739/web.jpg?ver=13040093400001)
Some usual wear and damage. Not so much that I definitely want to replace it, but it's also not ruled out ;)
Here you see where the ashes fell down, so it's pretty dirty here, this cleaned up nicely though.
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6740/web.jpg?ver=13040093250001)
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The famous cigarette holders. I've had ashtrays on cabs before, but this is the first (and AFAIK the only) cab that has them as STANDARD factory equipment ;)
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6741/web.jpg?ver=13040092940001)
Some Magic Eraser and they cleaned up very nice. Of course doesn't remove those heavy scratches... (coins?)
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6742/web.jpg?ver=13040094260001)
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6744/web.jpg?ver=13040093100001)
Clear to see the differences between the buttons:
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6730/web.jpg?ver=13040093950001)
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Now, something really interesting ! I already mentioned that the P1 and P2 buttons were different. Well here's the proof:
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6732/web.jpg?ver=13040093850001)
That button on the left is (much like) the one Atari used. The one on the right is actually the Hyperspace button (so without LED built-in). Instead, is has a spring in there to make it work a little smoother I guess.
The one with the LED has terminals on the + and - signs.
Of course the most striking thing is that those things also seem to be HOME-MADE by Sidam. I haven't seen those before. As you can see, you can't open them, and I don't think I will risk it !
I must say, they do not operate as smoothly as the Atari one's. But still, if someone can find some NOS in Italy, there could be a market for these ;)
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6731/web.jpg?ver=13040094130001)
(Uncleaned pic) As mentioned before, the lenses are somewhat rounder on the top, which feels a bit nicer.
I think I will put another Atari (like) button in the P1 position so they are at least equal. I first thought about moving the Hyperspace to P1 but since it doesn't have a LED, that's not possible.
A close-up of the cone. They are identical on P1 and P2 and look much like the originals. They are pretty beat up, I think I still have some repro's left.. :D
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6733/web.jpg?ver=13040093550001)
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Forgot to post this detail shot of the edge of the CP....mmmmm....
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6743/web.jpg?ver=13040094210001)
Here is Sidam's equivalent of Atari's AR-2:
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6746/web.jpg?ver=13040093340001)
OK, they used an external heat-sink for the 2N3055 (the 5V section is not identical though, but it does also use a 5V sense feedback) but the Italian engineers sure showed Atari how to do an efficient PCB lay-out !
The pot on the top-right (with thumb-wheel) regulates the volume, the one in the middle-left regulates the +5V.
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nice work you're doing here, andré, i especially favor your hi-res macro shots - keep 'em coming!
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nice work you're doing here, andré, i especially favor your hi-res macro shots - keep 'em coming!
+1!
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Removed all the buttons and wiring to clean it and of course SCAN it ! (Still with my old scanner Etienne)
Why scan it if there is already a vector at zorg's vectorlib ?
http://vectorlib.free.fr/Asterock/ (http://vectorlib.free.fr/Asterock/)
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Because......I didn't know !! :evil:
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Ah ;)
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"I wanna Aste-rock with you......all night.....dance you in to the sun-light....."
:)
Another sunny day, but a bit windy, but let's get on....
One of the "grips" was broken. I still had the "hard plastic" glue around from fixint the Eagle of my Judge Dredd pinball, and it worked great on that, so...
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6769/web.jpg?ver=13042839080001)
Wanted to have a look at the most indecent spot of a cab so I carefully put her on her side....easy when empty, she felt light like a feather :P
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6770/web.jpg?ver=13042838760001)
You gotta hand it to the Italians: They've got STYLE !!! A very nice looking wood-grain (that is, if you like wood-grain) on the bottom of the machine.
OK, on the front, it's pretty clear that drinks or cleaning the floors, have left some residue...
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6771/web.jpg?ver=13042839010001)
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6774/web.jpg?ver=13042839350001)
Ah, that's better. You don't want to know what kept coming out of the bottom vents....
I like that it has wooden "slides", no need for leg leveling ;)
But uhm what's in that right slide ??
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6773/web.jpg?ver=13042839550001)
Mmm, weird place for spare parts !?!? (In fact this was one of the reasons why I wanted to have a look, I could hear the cab "scratching" my tiles when I shifted it around....my own fault, because those screws used to be on my SW yoke...... :-\
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Of course, there are new screws like that in my yoke now....anyway...
After doing the final cleaning (bottom and harness) I started to rebuild the machine, great feeling !
Installing the "new" speaker, another original Atari part entering the bootleg :P
I had to turn the speaker 90 degr. of course, because else I couldn't fix the speaker cover. I could use one original bolt (through the original hole), the others I fixed with some screws....
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6778/web.jpg?ver=13042839780001)
Another new tube bought at the local DIY, they most wonder why I buy so "many" of them. I can't stand the fact that the one's I bought for the Berzerk machine that came over from the US were cheaper for TWO SHIPPED....oh well....10000 hrs. of light....who cares about a few pennies extra :)
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6781/web.jpg?ver=13042839250001)
Yeah, yeah.....gotta post it:
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6782/web.jpg?ver=13042839120001)
Fixture mounted back in and installed the tube...
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6783/web.jpg?ver=13042839730001)
Look, decent venting for the fluorescent set-up.....pretty rare to see that, again excellent work and another +1 for the bootleg !
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6780/web.jpg?ver=13042839400001)
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Turns out I forgot to take some essential pics, but I'll do later...
Anyway I installed the PSU, PCB's back, harness back in place.
Then I noticed this:
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6777/web.jpg?ver=13042839150001)
Two identical plugs. One comes from the "AR2" board and runs to the game PCB carrying -5V and +12V for the 2708 ROMs, the other hooks the 2N3055 power transistor (the one on the heat-sink) to that same "AR2" board.
As you can see, they ARE interchangeble !! Soooooo, maybe someone mixed them up at one point in time, and doing so blew up the 7905 ?? Not sure, but it could very well be. Mmm, a first -1 for the Italian engineers here....
Hey, I also found the serial nr. in the top of the machine:
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6775/web.jpg?ver=13042838840001)
and it matches the handwritten nr. on the back panel:
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6776/web.jpg?ver=13042838910001)
Sorry Etienne, no fancy serial stickers !
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Well, I decided that I would clean the monitor while doing the cap-kit (which it's very likely going to need, more about that later) and would also replace the Sidam cone button when I would do the rest of the buttons too (Another BR order coming up....)
So....here are some "in the gameroom" shots...
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6784/web.jpg?ver=13042839210001)
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6789/web.jpg?ver=13042839620001)
(The letters are not as "wooly" as on this picture.
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6785/web.jpg?ver=13042839470001)
Now about the monitor: I can see that things aren't totally steady. There's some movement, and you can see it especially when you reach the "enter your name" screen (which took a while to reach, getting 10000 is pretty hard with the small saucer worth only 500 points instead of 1000).
I hope and assume that's a cap problem. A good "subject" for my ESR meter to see what we find !!
Anyway the focus is still very nice. Of course the tube has the obvious black spot in the center. Luckily it's not TOO big, and when playing it's barely noticeable. I know there are new tubes available in the US, but shipping would probably kill the fun...
There MUST be NOS CRT's in Europe, but WHERE ?!?!?
When objects move around the screen, I can also see that lines sometimes differ. I'm not sure what it is, it looks a bit like burn-in, but then, not exactly....
So.....of course I had to play a LOT of games and I found it VERY hard to quite playing to post this.....:P
I'm telling you, one of the most beautiful sights in classic arcade gaming, is the bright "glowing" bullets of Asteroids (rock)...you HAVE to see this in person to understand....and no, NOTHING can even come close ! :D
I'm uploading a video....be patient :P
-
Mmmmmm, one last thing, I was about to leave the gameroom and the Asterock was still running, was looking at it (admiring it ;)) and suddenly I hear some credits being added to the coin counter....I though WTF, is there an animal or something in there so I want to switch on the main light and before I can do that "POP". Everything is dark.....not only my gameroom, the entire house !
That could only mean one thing: earth-leak triggered....and indeed. Turned it back on, and the machine came back on nicely again....
Just to make sure I connected the Ground wire to the coin-door. I haven't done the coin-door yet either and it's now laying in the coin-box area so I can credit the machine...
I'm really thinking about how to make an adapter so I can hook up my original Asteroids PCB. One challenge is that the original expects 36VAC and it creates 22V DC from that, but I have already 22VDC coming from the "AR2".
The other challenge is that crediting the Asterock doesn't work by closing a switch to Ground, but instead closing it to +5V !!!!
Another reason for needing the still to be released 3-in-1 board, if I can set it to free-play there's no more worries about that....
Good night...video later...
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Mmmm, I sense you guys are all looking in sheer bewilderment....
SO here are some pics I forgot to upload earlier ....
One of the leaf switches.....someone once wrote:
DO NOT BURNISH GOLD LEAF CONTACTS.....someone else didn't read it I guess...
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6747/web.jpg?ver=13043582380001)
OK, A little cleaning with Magic Sponge...but of course it doesn't bring the contact back......guess I'll add those to the BR order...
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6748/web.jpg?ver=13043581880001)
The bolts and rings that hold the marquee retainers need a bit of black spray paint:
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6765/web.jpg?ver=13043581340001)
Marquee retainers (they are identical) and the bezel retainer:
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6755/web.jpg?ver=13043581960001)
A bit dirty:
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6759/web.jpg?ver=13043582530001)
Cleaned:
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6764/web.jpg?ver=13043581420001)
Another stylish touch from the Italians: The retainers are covered in vinyl instead of painted. Excellent idea: no rust, no re-painting needed.
Here you can see the vinyl being "overlapped" over the edge:
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6760/web.jpg?ver=13043582440001)
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Better close-up of one of those connectors. The pins are much smaller than what is commonly used on US cabs, and why not, the videogames didn't draw as much current as the (old) pinball machines did...
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6753/web.jpg?ver=13043581470001)
The brand is Bicc - Burndy...can't find anything about them on the net though....
More later...have to go...
-
This asterock is comming back to life !
Looking good Andre !
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There MUST be NOS CRT's in Europe, but WHERE ?!?!?
Indeed i have a quotation a few month ago for this one here in France
Poste Qte' Designation Prix UHT Total HT Delai
1 1 M47EAA5WS 85.00 1 Semaine ARC
CATHODE RAY TUBE
Stock Etats-Unis
Total 85.00
Frais de port en sus, expedition par UPS Standard, soit 69 euros
HT.
----------------------------------------------------------------
If you want more information just let me know ;)
-
Mmmmmmm, VERY interesting !!
I see that M47EAA19WS = 19varp4 (the original Elektrohome tube),
but what would the difference between M47EAA19WS and M47EAA5WS be ??
Not too keen about the UPS shipping though, would much prefer regular post !!!
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yes I planned to buy 1 or 2 of them for future project..
As you can see on the datasheet
M= monitor Application
32= minimum viewable diagonal screen in cm
EAA = family Code
0 = Code for glass & screen surface treatment and others - see below
WW = Screen phosphor
(http://img2.uplood.fr/free/rkwe_p5.jpg)
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Mmmm, OK not everything means something to me (like ISL) and just why must it be 19 that is omitted in that list ;) but I guess those are differences that hardly make any impact (f.i. a different phosphor _would_ make a difference....
Also 5 means Normal Glare and Tint, sounds fine to me :P
Seeing the French text, do they ship from France ? Would you get a better shipping price if you order more tubes (Not sure how UPS service is in France, but in the US they have the worst reputation amongst arcade collectors for breaking stuff)....
Also 69 Euro's seems to be very expensive for a domestic shipping that size ?
Anyway, I'm definitely seriously interested. I mean, a new crispy tube would be a dream for my Asterock, even though the current one isn't half bad. But knowing that this tube will probably last another 30 years would be quite comforting. Also: it would be a great practice to do a B/W tube swap first, before starting on the more ambitious Amplifone swap for Ckong :P
-
Thinking one step further: maybe there would be interest enough for a group-buy ??
I mean, there are more b/w vector owners around Europe.......and we've done crazier things (like the monitor Group buy from Ireland :P).....
Any idea how many they still have on stock ? We should be able to get a pretty good discount for helping them clear out their old stock that nobody wants ;) ;) ;)
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I'd be definitely interested in a (couple) of 19VARP4 replacement CRTs.
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shipping from US stock, it was on february 2011 no stock in Europe at this date.
Only a quote for a few part so no discount at this time, for a group by order - we need a clearer idea of the number for a quote, I think we could save at least on shipping costs.
monitor for 'Cabaret cab' available too, color XY monitor not available of course :!:.
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Ah rats....I'd hoped those were stocked in France....or somewhere else in Europe....
Importing them adds a LOT to the costs, ask CKONG or Speleo.....
Still maybe we can arrange a pallet (or two) full of them ? That might actually save on costs.....we'd need to rally up about all B/W vector game owners in Europe though...
"Color XY monitor not available of course" ? Well, about any low-res color tube of the right size should work. But of course, you won't have the medium resolution of the original Amplifone, if that's what you mean ;)
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"Color XY monitor not available of course" ? Well, about any low-res color tube of the right size should work. But of course, you won't have the medium resolution of the original Amplifone, if that's what you mean ;)
I was talking about the 19VLUP22.
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That's the low-res WG6100 tube. Should be possible to replace with about any color CRT tube that is compatible...
-
Anyway, I checked with the e-bay source for that B/W tube and apart from being more expensive to start with, he also quoted a shipping price of $225,- per UPS !!!!!!! :shock: :shock: :shock:
So, both the price and the shipping costs are very reasonable from your source.....
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Some more pics I forgot earlier:
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6766/web.jpg?ver=13043582040001)
to
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6767/web.jpg?ver=13043582190001)
The two different buttons from Sidam, one with and one without LED:
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6750/web.jpg?ver=13043582120001)
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6751/web.jpg?ver=13043581770001)
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6752/web.jpg?ver=13043581550001)
If ANYONE has a source for one WITH LED, please let me know, as I'd prefer to install the original one's instead of the "Atari" one's....
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Now.....there's a "dilema"....well not really.
The thing is that, long time ago, before I even owned the Meteor or Asterock, I had the opportunity to buy an untested Asteroids PCB for a very nice price. I took a chance, and when I brought it with me to Speleo on our first visit to him, I asked if he could test it on his Asteroids cocktail.
He first gave it a good visual inspection and then asked me where I got it from....I told him, and he said that he had repaired that very board earlier !!!
And indeed it was working 100% :)
So....now....since I really do not like the fire sound (the "new" Atari speaker made it a tiny bit better, but it's still annoying as hell) and I really mis the fire sound of the saucers I was thinking about using the original Asteroids PCB in the Asterock. Of course this had to be a 100% reversible solution... (By the way, there is another BIG reason for wanting to run an original Asteroids PCB, and that is the (hopefully soon available) Asteroids 3in1 kit that has Asteroids, AD AND Lunar Lander (!!!) on it...plus of course extra's like free play and hi-score saving....
So, the first thing you check if you want to do this, is of course check if the Sidam PCB might be pin-compatible.
Checking out the schematics soon indicated that although both have 22 pins per side, they are completely different.
And not only that, there were even some "major" differences in the electronics.
The fist one was the handling of the buttons and coin-mech switches etc. Almost EVERY game around, has inputs for those switches and you need to short (close) them to ground to activate the input. In a (futile) try to make Asterock "different" from the original, Sidam decided to let all the switches be operated by putting a +23V signal on them. Yes I couldn't really believe it at first either, but it's true..
Now...this would mean a major problem of course. Would I have to "invert/convert" that signal or make other changes to the PCB, I really didn't want that. SOoooo, I checked the manual again, and the solution turned out to be very simple. The +23V is a "shared" line that runs to all the contacts. Sooo, if I would connect GND to that line instead of the +23V it should simply work !
The second problem is that Astroids "wants" 36VAC on two pins. On the game PCB that voltage is rectified to DC using a diode bridge and filtered with a cap. This results in about +22V and -22V, which are fed to 78xx and 79xx voltage regulators to create various voltages for (amongst others) the vector DAC's.
Now...the Sidam engineers decided this was something that belonged on the Power Supply section (and I agree) so they put the rectifiers and filter cab on the PSU and so instead of +36VAC, +23V and -23V (never mind the 1 voltage difference, it's unregulated anyway) onto the game PCB...
So....instead of having 36 VAC available, I have +23V and -23V available. But wait a minute I need that voltage right behind the bridge rectifier
on the Asteroids PCB !!
So....should I make bypasses ? No, please NO modifications to either the harness or PCB....
Mmmm, than I thought about how some people "hack" a DC voltage PSU to f.i. Galaxian or Pac Man PCB's.....they simple connect it to the AC inputs ! And I thought this should also be possible in this situation.
Why this (should !) work ?
Well...check the schematics again:
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/Schermafbeelding-202011-05-04-20om-2022-11-41/web.jpg?ver=13045409570001)
Of course the Asteroids PCB "expects" AC on the inputs, but if I connect the +23VDC to pin X, and -23VDC on pin 20 it should simply work.
From x, the + voltage will go through CR11 and hey, there is where we need +22VDC ! (Green arrow).
The diode actually helps lowering the voltage a little bit, so we should be safe !
Also, the + voltage from pin X should be BLOCKED by CR10, so that's safe too. (Red Arrow)
On the other side, the -23VDC should be passing through CR9, while being blocked by CR12, so we'd have -23VDC on the 7915 input too.
(I didn't draw arrows for this, to keep things clear, but it works the same, but reversed as described above...)
The caps simple provide a little bit of extra filtering which never harms :)
So in theory I think this should work great .....(if someone sees a reason why it shouldn't, please give a shout ! :P
So....in the end.....all I have to do is make an adapter ! Great !!!
I made a little table with what goes to what....now all I need to do is build it ! :)
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The +/-23V supply should work and as you are feeding it to a 'Bridge Rectifier' its really not relevant where you connect the + and the - ....
:lol:
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Uh.....hah yeah, you're right !!! ;D ;D
I'll upload the table I got so far, would you care to have a look at it Andreas ?
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/Schermafbeelding-202011-05-04-20om-2022-47-58/web.jpg?ver=13045421430001)
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Never mind...
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I don't understand everything you post (far to technical) but great work so far. Can't wait to play with this giant astray @ Eurocade. ;D
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.....but you won't be allowed to actually USE it as an ashtray Gyruss....;)
Thanks !
More technical stuff ahead, if you like it or not !!!
Installed a cap-kit on the G05-802 monitor this morning. Turned out I actually still had one laying around...also had ordered the big filter caps (C100 & C101) from RS, that was over 15 Euro's just for those 2 suckers....
O well, it's for a good cause ;) It's funny how these big caps are often not included in any cap-kits, since they are often the most important....
Anyway, while I was soldering on it anyway I also checked out a lot of dull looking solderings, and redid ALL the solderings of ALL connectors on both the HV and deflection board.
Tripple checked all my work (again my son helped with a lot of soldering, took some extra time, but it's fun because he really enjoys doing it).
Sooo, hooked it back up, and no matter how much experience you've got, this is always an scary moment.
Power up and....no smoke.....good........we have neck-glow....good......we have no picture......no good !!!!
Tried fiddling with brightness and contrast, contrast doesn't do anything, when I turn the brightness WAY up, I get a picture but with a big fat bright white spot in the center and all the retrace lines.
Checked out the BW vector monitor FAQ and KLOV forum....
Read a tip about the LED that indicates that the spot killer is activated can be the cause. Measured it and sure enough it was KAPUTT (short). Removed it and turned powered up and YES it's working normally again !!! Wahooo....
But removing the LED also disables the spot-killer circuit. We don't want that.
So soldered in a new LED and power up: no more picture and a bright LED indicating the spot killer kicked in, but WHY because there IS deflection going on normally. There is only one conclusion: the spot-killer circuit itself is KAPUTT !
Measured all the transistors, and yes Q502 (which is right "next" to the LED) is also showing a full short on all three legs, so this is also KAPUTT !!
It's a 2N3906 and yippie, RS online carries it. Ordered 5 (min. quantity but also nice if it blows right up again.... (Let's hope not).
Now, we wait....and do some other work....
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... I'll upload the table I got so far, would you care to have a look at it Andreas ?
I took a look this evening. Not too much to add, I guess.
You may just want to use one Audio Output from the Asteroids and feed it via an electrolytic CAP to the input of the ASTEROCK Audio Amp, which is 19A. Then 19B of Asterock Connector needs to receive true GND of course. Which Atari Audio (1 or 2) you are using,doesn't matter. One is just the inverted of the other.
Interested to see how your sound will be finally. With the Asteroids AR1, these two AUDIO1/2 amplified signals alone drive the speaker, which is NOT connected to GND.
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Well spotted and something I indeed noticed as well...and was a bit worried about. :)
Thanks !
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There MUST be NOS CRT's in Europe, but WHERE ?!?!?
Indeed i have a quotation a few month ago for this one here in France
Poste Qte' Designation Prix UHT Total HT Delai
1 1 M47EAA5WS 85.00 1 Semaine ARC
CATHODE RAY TUBE
Stock Etats-Unis
Total 85.00
Frais de port en sus, expedition par UPS Standard, soit 69 euros
HT.
----------------------------------------------------------------
If you want more information just let me know ;)
Any news ? I've been doing quite some digging and can hardly find anything better on offer (IF they already still have something...)
I found a picture of the LAI monitor that was in the Meteor that I used to have and it's a 19VFWP4 so that may be a good alternative too....if findable....
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100924/DSCF0789/web.jpg?ver=13048847260001)
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@Speleo_De: gonna sound like dumb but should I put that cap between the audio signal and GND or in series ?
Please explain what we're trying to do, I guess "decoupling" the circuits ?
I've received the JB weld and remounted (glued, "cold-welded") one of the studs on the coin door (can't find the others, thought I put them in a safe place but well.....wives........but I'm sure they'll surface soon enough ;))
I guess for this application I should have bought the "Kwik" (quick) version though. I had to put the door-rim 100% flat to keep the stud standing upright in the beginning, the stuff hards out pretty slowly .....
Checked it this morning and it feels pretty sturdy already. Should be completely done this afternoon (takes 15 hrs. to completely cure).
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@Speleo_De: gonna sound like dumb but should I put that cap between the audio signal and GND or in series ?
Please explain what we're trying to do, I guess "decoupling" the circuits ?
I meant it in series, any 10uF to 100uf/25 V, plus to Asterock output. This is to keep DC out.
BUT ... this seems to be redundant then, as the Asterock Amplifier PCB has a Cap already, just looked at it.
So its not needed, but wouldn't hurt either.
Still, just use one of the Audio out and the real GND for GND
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Good news ! Started making the adapter to use the original Atari Asteroids PCB in the Asterock. I figured I'd to the "dangerous" stuff first and soldered the +5V, GND and "AC" voltages for the DACs and of course X, Y and Z. Of course the curiosity (and to see if I was on the right track) made me test it after that.
First test, nothing...no LED on the PCB, nothing on screen...but also no smoke/explosions or other really bad things....
Then I figured....maybe the -5V and +12V that run on the extra connector may be needed to be "loaded"...
I'm still not sure if that really is it, but after I put back in the Asterock board, connected that extra connector to it, but connected the Asteroids PCB to the main connector, it WORKED !
Wahoo, I see asteroids, ships and "copyright Atari" ;D ;D
The screen is not as beautiful as with the Asterock board though, but I think I already know the reason for that, but more on that later...
At least the theory of inputting the DC into the AC pins works as we expected :)
Will have to finish the rest of the connections this weekend...
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Congrats on the experiment Andre !
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although i have no idea what you're talking about, it sounds cool 8)
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Really ? Well, in "Jip & Janneke" language:
I have an original Asteroids PCB running in the Asterock cab. I'm building an adapter to make this possible :)
I now have done only the most essential wires to get it running and produce a picture. That's it.
Now I still need to do the wires for controls, sound, credits etc.
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Really ? Well, in "Jip & Janneke" language:
I have an original Asteroids PCB running in the Asterock cab. I'm building an adapter to make this possible :)
I now have done only the most essential wires to get it running and produce a picture. That's it.
Now I still need to do the wires for controls, sound, credits etc.
Sounds much more familiar. ;D ;D ;D
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Noob question: How do you know which wire is what?
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By comparing the pin-outs on both schematics.
The schematics (or pin out tables) list which pin carries which signal.
F.i. you look up the "fire" input on one board and then on the other and you will know between which pins you need to make a connection. You do that for everything, +5V, Ground, video signals ( in this case X,Y and Z and their grounds), buttons and sound.
In simple terms you are simple re-routing the signal from one pin to another.
I always create a table (see above) which shows which pin needs to be connect to which pin on the other side.
The Asterock has two "weird' things though. Those have been discussed earlier. (a "common" plus (instead of a minus) going to all buttons and the sound output stage is different, hence the suggested cap by Speleo....
The thing looks basically like this (except that I used two separate finger-boards):
(http://www.therealbobroberts.net/sys16.gif)
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okay, cool. I'll have to do the same with my cosmic zero, i'm sure i'll ask you some more questions.
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@Speleo_De: gonna sound like dumb but should I put that cap between the audio signal and GND or in series ?
Please explain what we're trying to do, I guess "decoupling" the circuits ?
I meant it in series, any 10uF to 100uf/25 V, plus to Asterock output. This is to keep DC out.
BUT ... this seems to be redundant then, as the Asterock Amplifier PCB has a Cap already, just looked at it.
I guess you mean C16 at the Amplifier on the " AR " board right ?
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I guess you mean C16 at the Amplifier on the " AR " board right ?
Yes.
-
Mmmm, hooked everything up except for the sound (to eliminate that if it would give a problem), double checked the connections. fired the machine up with the adapter and Asteroids board and I see a flash near the fuses of the power supply. Both 23V fuses blown.
Houston, we've got a problem...
Gotta figure out what is wrong in the connections....tomorrow......
-
Even though I had to work late today I managed to do some investigating.
I figured I'd better go back to the initial working set-up before doing anything else, so back to the Asterock board.
First checked all the fuses on the power supply and replaced both the 23V fuses that had blown.
Power up, not working.
I have neckglow, no deflection chatter, the board's not running.
Checked all votages, +12V is missing on the extra connector (so ROM's not working). No voltage on the input of the 7812 on the "AR2" board.
Measure voltages across all the big caps on the Power Supply, one doesn't have any voltage across it.
Measured all diodes and found a short across two diodes in the diode bridge of the 23V section.
I need 1A 100V diodes, got some 1N4007 which should work fine. Heading to bed now though...more tomorrow....ah, just 2 more days to work and then a LOOOOOONG weekend with excellent weather up ahead. Not sure about the wife's plans, but I'm planning at least 1 day for working on the games. If anyone is in the area and wants to join the fun, let me know ;)
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Desoldered both diodes and both were blown (full short). Soldered new one's in and powered up. Still nothing....WTF ?!?!
Ahh, but of course ! Because of the shorted diodes, the fuses that I had replaced had blown again ! Replaced and yes, we are back in business. Asterock is back.
Now.....what can have caused the short. Seeing that the problems were in the +23V section, the issue has to be there....will need to investigate further....
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Glad that its working again, would be a shame to miss asterock on eurocade, you know euro bootleg - eurocade ::)
maybe better continue after Eurocade ? ;)
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Believe me, you do NOT want to hear that fire sound of the Asterock all day....
I'll have a look if I can find it easily. The 23V must be shorted in one kind of way...else I may ask for some support from 'around town" ;)
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Believe me, you do NOT want to hear that fire sound of the Asterock all day....
I'll have a look if I can find it easily. The 23V must be shorted in one kind of way...else I may ask for some support from 'around town" ;)
Thats actually not too dificult....
(http://www.mechatroniks.com/wrx/images/spacer6.jpg)
See those wires? just disconnect one of them ;D
seriously, i think that the guy around town can help you out, and i think he likes that too :D
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I desoldered 3 wires from the adapter, one of them the "common" wire for the buttons, which should be GND for the Atari board and +23V for the Asterock. Maybe there's the problem somewhere...
Anyway with those 3 wires loose I got the Asteroids PCB running again. Well. Somewhat running. The astroids and everything is pretty dim, except for the saucers and their firing. It also is "blinking" a little bit.
After some time, I heard that the deflection chatter stopped, looked at the screen, blank.
Powered off, on again, works again.....for a while...
Measured the +5V, only 3,7 Volts !!!! Some kind of miracle that it actually DID some running sometimes at all !!!
Fully adjusted the pot for the +5V on the "AR" board but I can't get it higher than 4.2 Volts.
It's probably that the Asteroids board is "eating" more power from the +5V, f.i. the EPROMS used on Asterocks use +5V, on the Asterock there EPROMS that are fed by the +12V and -5V.
Now....both the Atari and Sidam boards feature "power sense". Sometimes this feature has been cursed by people, blaiming it for burning parts. Often people "solve" the problem by modding the AR-2 so that the sense circuit no longer works.
Now.....the AR-2 and the Sidam "AR-2" boards are different. They use different regulators. However, I would figure that any sense level is simply still a (somewhat) +5V level, so am I right that I can hook it up just like that ? I know the Atari board also uses a -sense (not only +sense).
Any help here would be appreciated !
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Mehhh, checked it and there are no wires connected to the "sense" inputs of the Sidam. So, the Sidam doesn't actually use the sense inputs on this game.
So why can I only get like 4 volts from it while the pot is ALL the way up. The 2N3055 should be able to deliver loads of power....
By the way, I had a good non flickering screen for a while after I fully turned up the pot, so I have good hopes that when the +5V is OK it will run fine.
Of course I could put a switcher PSU in there, but that's not like we do it right ? ;D
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you could test it with a switcher to determine of it is indeerd a power issue (which probably is)
i remember my CK board in comparation with your CK board that one i could not get the power high enough eather, while the other board went over the 5 volt, so i think some board just draw more power than others..
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Yes absolutely, the Asteroids draws more power. One of the simple reasons is that it has a couple more chips on board (sound !) but the main difference is that the ROMs are also powered from the +5V on the Asteroids while the Asterock has separate +12V and -5V for them (different kind of ROMs).
However, the PSU should be able to easily provide enough current. The set-up with the 2N3055 transistor should be able to provide 10A easily, and there's really no board that draws that amount of current....
I am thinking of either that the set-up of the regulation may have resistors that simply limit the range of adjustment or there might simply be a defect somewhere ....
Here's the schematic:
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100937/Schermafbeelding-202011-06-02-20om-2011-01-45/web.jpg?ver=13070072810001)
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dont remember where or how i heard it, but i believe i have heard that 1 3055 is capable of 3 Amps, so i guess if you state that it must easy deliver 10 Amps, there is more than one 3055 in there ?
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Yeah, you're right, for 10 amps 2 of them would be required.
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Needed to still find those little lamps:
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100917/DSCF6698/web.jpg?ver=13037634470001)
Think I found something suitable here:
http://nl.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=6559390
The manual indicates there is 6.3VAC going to the lamps and that they are 150 mA. These lamps are the closest match on RS, 6V and 200mA so they may be a bit brighter. Sizes also are comparable.
Of course I ordered them right away...
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There MUST be NOS CRT's in Europe, but WHERE ?!?!?
Indeed i have a quotation a few month ago for this one here in France
Poste Qte' Designation Prix UHT Total HT Delai
1 1 M47EAA5WS 85.00 1 Semaine ARC
CATHODE RAY TUBE
Stock Etats-Unis
Total 85.00
Frais de port en sus, expedition par UPS Standard, soit 69 euros
HT.
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If you want more information just let me know ;)
Bumping this.....Hi, this price is unbeatable I believe and I am interested in buying one, can you check if its still available at this price ?
Thanks !!!
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There MUST be NOS CRT's in Europe, but WHERE ?!?!?
Indeed i have a quotation a few month ago for this one here in France
Poste Qte' Designation Prix UHT Total HT Delai
1 1 M47EAA5WS 85.00 1 Semaine ARC
CATHODE RAY TUBE
Stock Etats-Unis
Total 85.00
Frais de port en sus, expedition par UPS Standard, soit 69 euros
HT.
----------------------------------------------------------------
If you want more information just let me know ;)
Hey HI,
If they still have them for that price....please let me know !!!
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Hey André, Aspic sells some spare for you maybe, right here (https://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=3746.0).
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Yeah but those are used tubes too, don't know if they have any burn though. But I couldn't rob an Asterock from its CRT.....that wouldn't be right....
By the way, I have a fully working , fully restored Asterock for sale..... ;D
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There MUST be NOS CRT's in Europe, but WHERE ?!?!?
Indeed i have a quotation a few month ago for this one here in France
Poste Qte' Designation Prix UHT Total HT Delai
1 1 M47EAA5WS 85.00 1 Semaine ARC
CATHODE RAY TUBE
Stock Etats-Unis
Total 85.00
Frais de port en sus, expedition par UPS Standard, soit 69 euros
HT.
----------------------------------------------------------------
If you want more information just let me know ;)
Hey HI,
If they still have them for that price....please let me know !!!
Hello ,
I must ask them about the amount and availability.
The bulk buy order did not seem have a great success last year...
we stay in touch for that.
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It looks like the Asterock is going to move to the US.......unless someone offers me more than 300 USD for it.... ;D ;D
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It looks like the Asterock is going to move to the US.......unless someone offers me more than 300 USD for it.... ;D ;D
OK, good to hear that the deal went through.
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It looks like the Asterock is going to move to the US.......unless someone offers me more than 300 USD for it.... ;D ;D
You gave her a really nice price. :D
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It looks like the Asterock is going to move to the US.......unless someone offers me more than 300 USD for it.... ;D ;D
OK, good to hear that the deal went through.
The deal went through only after the money is in my hands.....or in my account...
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It looks like the Asterock is going to move to the US.......unless someone offers me more than 300 USD for it.... ;D ;D
You gave her a really nice price. :D
Yeah I am way too fair...seriously worth it IMHO. The monitor alone is worth half that money....
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mmm tempting, i could use a new astray in my game room!
Just jocking of course, would be cool to see it move to the US...
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It looks like the Asterock is going to move to the US.......unless someone offers me more than 300 USD for it.... ;D ;D
You gave her a really nice price. :D
Oh, and that is only the cash part of the deal...............
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This baby never sold to the US so it is now back for sale again.
If you want a 9.5/10 condition machine, fully reworked monitor, free play option installed and a much more compact Asteroids this is you chance.
I am looking for €250
The monitor alone is worth that kind of money.....
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aiaiaiiiii Andre
My budget is close to zero right now :'( most of my ëasy"money went to the upcoming baby and my brand new bathroom
but it would look so good in my collection ::)
I´m selling all kind of (non arcade) stuff to get new budget. Maybe I get lucky ;D
You have a pic?
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This baby never sold to the US so it is now back for sale again.
If you want a 9.5/10 condition machine, fully reworked monitor, free play option installed and a much more compact Asteroids this is you chance.
I am looking for €250
The monitor alone is worth that kind of money.....
wow. amazing price! guys... get it!
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André, I'm interested too (but I'm far away too :shock: !).
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:o
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This baby is sold.
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This baby is sold.
GREAT! Congratulations!!!
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congrats, thats probably means no pic is coming
too bad, I would've bought it from you... I should've been more clear I guess
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Uh yeah.........it didn't sound you were going to buy it anytime soon ?
I'm also happy that it will stay "in the neighborhood" ;D
Leo actually called me very quickly after I posted it for sale so he's the lucky new owner :)
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Too bad all the pics from your first post of this topic disappeared, this was very detailed and interesting restoration.
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Still got the pics but no time to repost them all. I'll post a couple of the best pics tonight.
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Me very happy and don't worry you are more then welcome to play it in my mancave as soon as it is finished...autum 2014.
New bathroom and a baby on the way ..... Lets face it, you will be wayyyyy to busy ;)
congrats, thats probably means no pic is coming
too bad, I would've bought it from you... I should've been more clear I guess
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probably ;D
I really need to restore my Hyper Olympic too ::)
and I sure will stop by if your cave is done, tx
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probably ;D
I really need to restore my Hyper Olympic too ::)
and I sure will stop by if your cave is done, tx
wanna see pictures for sure! :)
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Still got the pics but no time to repost them all. I'll post a couple of the best pics tonight.
it's a shame that all those pics disappeared, andré! would be cool if you could somehow fix this!
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Yeah, thinking about unloading them to Flickr and simply put a link to the correct album in the thread about that machine, not ideal, but at least you can see the pics that way.
Damn you Apple for quitting that picture publishing service !
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I also have a lot of pics links to fix from my early post because I changed server… booooring!