Dragon's Lair Fans - Arcade Lifestyle
General Chat => Arcade Lifestyle => Topic started by: falcon NL on May 03, 2010, 02:56:05 AM
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After almost 4 years of doubting, I finally decided to make a scratch build replica of the Donkey Kong Cabinet. The real "kick"from behind was after i had seen King of Kong...men I love that movie! Im still not sure if I want a complete replica or a adjusted one for two players+ a couple of extra buttons.
Since i have been looking to start this project more then 4 years ago i knew a couple thing ahead of time.
- Nintendo coin doors aren't that easy to find
- Planning is everything
- Color Matching is hard.
I started off with buying a coin door off the KLOV forums. It was a bit pricey but i got two working coint mech's with it. Yesterday i started with buying a sheets of MDF (244x122x15) and tracing the plans of jakobud (yes i know that they aren't that accurate, but i haven't got anything better to work with..)
Im still a total noob on making cabinets, mame or restoring parts of old cabinets to there original state. But i figured, if i never try it i would never learn. Plus there are A LOT of dutch people here, so that makes this a fun project to do and maybe make some new friends along the way!
Picture time!
The coint door from the Klov forum
(http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/4471/dsc01033klein.jpg)
(http://img130.imageshack.us/img130/7592/p1000472copyklein.jpg)
Cleaning up
(http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/2392/p1000480klein.jpg)
Drawing out the first side of the cabinet
(http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/930/p1000971klein.jpg)
(http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/5739/p1000969klein.jpg)
first side of the cabinet done!
(http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/2091/p1000974klein.jpg)
and thats all for now!
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Another Dutchie ! :)
Welcome !
Nintendo coin doors SUCK. Hard to find AND they are the weakest coin doors I've ever seen. I guess they didn't need very heavy one's in Japan... ?
What are you plans with the coin-mechs ?
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Hi Falcon, welcome here, Dutchie. It's perhaps a nice idea to introduce yourself and tell us something about your gaming past and preferences here: https://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?board=3.0
About the cab, very good choice of you to start with a Nintendo cab (ninty for some of us :( ;) )
Are you going to mame it? If I were you I would try to make it as original as possible, no (visible) extra buttons etc. Maybe make two as you are at it, one original and dedicated for DK, one possibly to Mame. About he colors: if you choose to make it red then there are a few forum members who can help you with the paint, if you are going to make it baby blue then I can help you with the color code for an 'exact' match. You could also choose to buy 'original' colored vinyl at thisoldgame.com
And you should use flat white T-molding, perhaps you still can participate in the group buy that Level42 organized ( https://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=1539.0 )
coin mechanism and parts: Asahi Seiko still makes them new: http://www.asahiseikousa.com/ They also have a UK based branch, but prices and choice of parts is better from the US branch. They however don't accept foreign credit cards, nor Paypal (strange but true), so you will need a US connection to get the parts.
Anyway, you will notice that you will find a lot of useful information on this forum.
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Welcome falcon NL :)
Hey, an new 'Scratch Build Replica' builder? :-* Coooool 8)
Be sure your on the right place here for such things :P Good job so far.
:spaceace:
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Thanks for the warm welcome Ckong and Lvl24!!
@lvl24
Yeah i know, i hate his door! It has million of dens in it, and the door won't shut smoothly. Im considering to put a layer of Bondo on to it so it will be smooth. I dont know what wrong with the door yet...Seems to me that the housing is bend (probably from taking out of its original cabinet) so i need to think of a way to solve that.
For the coin mechs, the guy that send me the door also sold me three coint mechs (those were in the deal..not bad for 40 dollars) One of them is a Asahi Seiko (i didnt knew if it was any good untill Ckong showed me ;)) and the other ones are original i guess...some help?
(http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/1747/p1000983klein.jpg)
Next to that..I not sure how much t-molding I would need to offer for a ninty (;)) cabinet and what it would cost me . And i have no idea why this is more real then the other stuff out there, other than it "flat" and "shiny", but i trust its closer to the original so...
@Ckong
Well i was planning on making it Mame. I want to try to make one cabinet by try and error (Mame) and after that i was planning on making a true DKjr. And about the color: I know the baby blue is the original color but i like the red better, but then again it a bit early to talk about colors? Or isnt it??
And for progress...It was a rainy day so i couldn't get the second MDF board (my car isnt big enough that i can carry two of those things at the same time..).So i ended up with drawing some other parts one the left over mdf board. I also was trying to make door straigh by forcing it to a straight line...
(http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/1334/p1000980klein.jpg)
This door is getting a real pain in the butt..Maybe i should try to heat it up?
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The doors are a pain. Flimsy as hell, no match for any burglar IMHO. Mine was dented as well and doesn't fit very smoothly either. I tried to work out some dents but couldn't get all out, yet I decided to have it powder coated. The blackness of the thing luckily hides the dents a bit.
Those two coin mechs you have there are definitely not original. Those are "hacked in" standard coin-mechs. The Asahi Seiko IS original though. Although it's a bit of a pain to get them, I too advice to get brand new faceplates PLUS the missing parts (like the return coin bugle, the return button and the mounting bolts (don't forget the last, we did, so IF you're going to order, I'd like a set of those too ;)) The issue is that there is a minimum order limit. However, IF you want to go 100% original you'll have to order a complete mech anyway so that will already get you close to the minimum IIRC.
The Asahi Seiko mechs are the most impressive quality mechs I've ever seen. Aluminium so no rust. The faceplates don't hold up really well though, as you've already discovered. I think it's great that they still make these unchanged today and putting those brand new parts on there is just an amazing sight. I've installed them on my door, I'll make a pic and put it up here tonight.
You will need 20 feet of the T-molding for 1 Nintendo cabinet. If you think the "regular" white Nintendo T-molding is fine for you, I have a set for a full cab here.
By the way, you posted one pics two times, guess you wanted to post another one there ?
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Well I spend my ENTIRE day fixing my coin door.
First i spend more then a hour taking it apart, somehow if you want to take out the lower pin of the hinge it slams into the door itself...so after a lot of wiggling around i got it out. After that i finally striped to the bare metal.
(http://img709.imageshack.us/img709/338/p1000991klein.jpg)
In last picture of my previous post you can see how i bend the metal evenly.I also dented out most of the pits that where in the door. When the door was closed one part was sticking out. It took me around 5 to 6 hours to make it finally fit perfectly into the frame.
(http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/5350/p1010001klein.jpg)
After that it fill the left over spots with bondo, sand it down with a sanding paper (grind 1000) and painted it a white primer layer.
(http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/7963/p1000992klein.jpgp)
(http://img130.imageshack.us/img130/4144/p1010003klein.jpg)
Tomorrow one more layer of bondo, some filling paint, black paint AND work on the cabinet it self!
@lvl42
Well im still not sure what to pick when in comes down to the t-molding. I have some pictures of Mikes tmolding and the original one. Im tempted to go with the "True" t-molding...but i cant find the wide of the molding. I used 15 mm MDF for the cabinet, isnt that off? :shock: Arrgh!! Any idea what the shipping cost are to the netherlands? Or are we taking a whole bunch at the same time and splitting the shipping costs?
About the coint mechs, you totally convinced me for the Asahi mechs! If those are the real deal, i need one more of them (plus two new faceplates and stuff). Now i need to find some cash for all of this!
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Nice work so far.
Or are we taking a whole bunch at the same time and splitting the shipping costs?
We are doing a bulk buy: https://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=1539.0
You will find more info about the T-molding on KLOV.
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Here's the pics of my mech with brand new
- faceplate
- return knob (& spring, but you don't see that of course)
- return bugle
You can see the missing bolt (boohoo !!!)
With flash:
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100272/DSCF5115/web.jpg?ver=12730946500001)
Without: (ambient arcade neon lighting only)
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100272/DSCF5116/web.jpg?ver=12730946540001)
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André they look great! Its a shame your missing a bolt, if i can get in contact with Asahi. I really want the original coin mechs+ face plate.
Update time!
I have been working a lot of thing this week to make sure she was standing up this week.
First i worked out the foot for the cabinet
(http://img532.imageshack.us/img532/8783/p1010026klein.jpg)
(http://img718.imageshack.us/img718/949/p1010029klein.jpg)
(http://img704.imageshack.us/img704/7224/p1010030klein.jpg)
I made sure to sink the bolts,so just a bit of touching up before i can paint the thing.
Saturday i jigsawed the seconded side panel and made sure they where even by sanding the hell out of it!
(http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/6565/p1010013klein.jpg)
Assembly! Thanks to Scr33n for the L brackets idea!
(http://img168.imageshack.us/img168/5315/p1010052klein.jpg)
(http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/2356/kleinu.jpg)
Well its been a hell of a week...but she is finally standing! I
(http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/3061/p1010061klein.jpg)
(http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/5413/p1010063klein2.jpg)
So there she is! Im not sure about the size...she looks kinda small, but its 60cm wide and 86 cm long...
Now its time to order all my stuff like the bezel, side art, retainers, buttons and joysticks. So which one is good? Im doubting between Mikearcade and mamemarquees/Gameongrafix, anyone any thought on that?
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judging from the pics, the control panel height looks as if it were too low - very low indeed! you can play on that cabinet while sitting on the floor ;) how inaccurate are those jacu-plans?
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I have no idea :(, but the hight of the cabinet is 168 cm and the CP start at 85 cm
Edit: Just check the measurement of Bruno, its not that far off only 2 cm... :shock:
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perhaps it's because of the angle the picture was taken from!
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Looking good so far.
.... missing a bolt, if i can get in contact with Asahi. I really want the original coin mechs+ face plate.
If you do, would you then perhaps be so kind to order extra sets of bolts for André and me (3 sets of 4 bolts, one set for André and two sets for me)? We were so stupid and forgot to order them with our parts.
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No problem, but im not sure if they ever going to get back to me..I signed up almost a week ago and haven't hear from Asahi since...
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Maybe a odd question but im looking for a EPS or a AI file of the CP of Donkey Kong, is there anyone that can help me with that or do you guys know where i can look?
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I don't think that's an odd question... Had the same one a few weeks ago! Take a look at this link, AI's from CPO's, Bezels, Marquees and side art!
http://vectorlib.free.fr/DonkeyKong/
Grtz,
Barry
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Great work so far Falcon NL :)
Just answered your PM.
And might be interesting to check out my scratch-build blog for research or comparison (www.donkeykongarcade.blogspot.com).
Keep it up!
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Well its good to hear that you like my project, not completely happy with it yet. My brother remarked yesterday that the side where even, but on some parts on the side is slope (in a angle). Im getting a router on Tuesday so I hoping i can still fix it...
Thanks for the help Brry71! That helpt a ton! Still not sure what to do the cp board.. ::)keep it orginal....orginal with a twist or two players....darnit!
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make this a 2 person, and build the next as original
2 advantages...
1. a two player cab
2. practice for the original :D
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2 player is REALLY uncomfortable on a Nintendo cab. It's simply too small for it.
I know, because my MB is of course two player. It also sucks when playing single player because the joystick is way too far to the left.
This is (a minor) reason for my planning of converting the cab to DK.
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I value your opinion guys, and after some doubt, i made the decision to make it one player. In the end seemed more logical and i agree with André. I tried to play side by side one a Nintendo cabinet and its just to small.
I ordered most of my stuff from mikes arcade.Here's the list:
Nintendo Bezel Art Retainer
Nintendo Control Panel bolt set (8 bolts/nuts)
Nintendo Lower Marquee / Top Bezel Bracket
Donkey Kong instruction card set
Control Panel Latch
Nintendo CP Strike Set
Nintendo Joystick Guard
Nintendo Black-ball joystick (4 or 8 way)
Nintendo Control Panel Retainer
Nintendo Machine Screw M3 x .5 x 6mm with Flat Head
5x Blue Pushbutton with Horizontal micro switch
1x Orange Pushbutton with Horizontal micro switch
I just need to order all the art work.
Problem is that i haven't install the marquee board in my arcade.
I haven't figured of the triangle in the marquee or the angle of my beezel. My cabinet is a little bit off (thank you Jakobud), so i need to recalculate a couple of measurements.
The dimensions Scott gave where these:
Bezel 23wx 21.875h
Marquee 22wx6h
So I'm looking for the original measurements for the bezel and the marquee and the triangle in the marquee section.
I also stubbed upon this?
http://verzamelen.marktplaats.nl/automaten-overige/344592103-beeldscherm-arcade-kast-horizontaal-vertikaal-toebehoren.html?return=eJwtjdsKgzAMQP9FcG%2BztuJwFRnuT4J2s9gbNt2GY%2F%2B%2BFHxJTk5uILn8aln3UYq6lUVUsE1LvyAGydjqg3KVhW3FYAAwVs6wl9p2sMooxyCht4DKnT1Z%2FVRs4uLSVQtac%2FuYgZ%2FmOKAvm5GXzd1QGLtrm1FkR6PEsybODinvOhDGxxyPpZBtTWCpMbpk6c%2BUfTr8%2BiYYtwlmRZWP%2BZo4hZCGuuh%2Ff8yoRVw%3D&df=1&fta=eNot0EtywyAMBuC7sMiahwEhJoteoFfIyIBTT52Gie0k00zuXmF39wkEiJ%2FQ42tGQLHeptOdpllELrl%2BTkd1yPNxuaKKk0IINk4alXYQ84hxWvB3rHEe8swNdUEZLxV%2F1ku5jSnWlevvB37cEuUSr%2FOI%2BlDrepTt%2Fg5FpXMRceSjMxoUY94e1i6gUF3qetPZJ0Or3kpG38uBoIE66bsNRnu9QQO4hmBg39JdorCDXL8DHOxwJjMoKxlKQ1JgYIcDauitsYZhPFHaVkB56Hao%2FbgvKShG8H2GtgKFm9qoQLIU3yDtkBp8UUW2Ub2jnHlUwy%2BG7TteD660e7zsaZvHDVKq1myhBGtaKooDWq6V8nyays95%2BWrBSd7gsC70PLUsOb6MukWIgh4ifv7zLiKhxNf7%2FQfozo7k&fta_ind=22&fs=1 (http://verzamelen.marktplaats.nl/automaten-overige/344592103-beeldscherm-arcade-kast-horizontaal-vertikaal-toebehoren.html?return=eJwtjdsKgzAMQP9FcG%2BztuJwFRnuT4J2s9gbNt2GY%2F%2B%2BFHxJTk5uILn8aln3UYq6lUVUsE1LvyAGydjqg3KVhW3FYAAwVs6wl9p2sMooxyCht4DKnT1Z%2FVRs4uLSVQtac%2FuYgZ%2FmOKAvm5GXzd1QGLtrm1FkR6PEsybODinvOhDGxxyPpZBtTWCpMbpk6c%2BUfTr8%2BiYYtwlmRZWP%2BZo4hZCGuuh%2Ff8yoRVw%3D&df=1&fta=eNot0EtywyAMBuC7sMiahwEhJoteoFfIyIBTT52Gie0k00zuXmF39wkEiJ%2FQ42tGQLHeptOdpllELrl%2BTkd1yPNxuaKKk0IINk4alXYQ84hxWvB3rHEe8swNdUEZLxV%2F1ku5jSnWlevvB37cEuUSr%2FOI%2BlDrepTt%2Fg5FpXMRceSjMxoUY94e1i6gUF3qetPZJ0Or3kpG38uBoIE66bsNRnu9QQO4hmBg39JdorCDXL8DHOxwJjMoKxlKQ1JgYIcDauitsYZhPFHaVkB56Hao%2FbgvKShG8H2GtgKFm9qoQLIU3yDtkBp8UUW2Ub2jnHlUwy%2BG7TteD660e7zsaZvHDVKq1myhBGtaKooDWq6V8nyays95%2BWrBSd7gsC70PLUsOb6MukWIgh4ifv7zLiKhxNf7%2FQfozo7k&fta_ind=22&fs=1)
Is this any good?
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That is quite a list of parts. You did ask Mike, or his wife, to put a low value for you on the invoice and package declaration, didn't you? Or else you won't be happy with customs. Nowadays parts from the US are already a lot more expensive for us as it is, thanks to our Southern European EU members.
I also stubbed upon this?
http://verzamelen.marktplaats.nl/automaten-overige/344592103-beeldscherm-arcade-kast-horizontaal-vertikaal-toebehoren.html?return=eJwtjdsKgzAMQP9FcG%2BztuJwFRnuT4J2s9gbNt2GY%2F%2B%2BFHxJTk5uILn8aln3UYq6lUVUsE1LvyAGydjqg3KVhW3FYAAwVs6wl9p2sMooxyCht4DKnT1Z%2FVRs4uLSVQtac%2FuYgZ%2FmOKAvm5GXzd1QGLtrm1FkR6PEsybODinvOhDGxxyPpZBtTWCpMbpk6c%2BUfTr8%2BiYYtwlmRZWP%2BZo4hZCGuuh%2Ff8yoRVw%3D&df=1&fta=eNot0EtywyAMBuC7sMiahwEhJoteoFfIyIBTT52Gie0k00zuXmF39wkEiJ%2FQ42tGQLHeptOdpllELrl%2BTkd1yPNxuaKKk0IINk4alXYQ84hxWvB3rHEe8swNdUEZLxV%2F1ku5jSnWlevvB37cEuUSr%2FOI%2BlDrepTt%2Fg5FpXMRceSjMxoUY94e1i6gUF3qetPZJ0Or3kpG38uBoIE66bsNRnu9QQO4hmBg39JdorCDXL8DHOxwJjMoKxlKQ1JgYIcDauitsYZhPFHaVkB56Hao%2FbgvKShG8H2GtgKFm9qoQLIU3yDtkBp8UUW2Ub2jnHlUwy%2BG7TteD660e7zsaZvHDVKq1myhBGtaKooDWq6V8nyays95%2BWrBSd7gsC70PLUsOb6MukWIgh4ifv7zLiKhxNf7%2FQfozo7k&fta_ind=22&fs=1 (http://verzamelen.marktplaats.nl/automaten-overige/344592103-beeldscherm-arcade-kast-horizontaal-vertikaal-toebehoren.html?return=eJwtjdsKgzAMQP9FcG%2BztuJwFRnuT4J2s9gbNt2GY%2F%2B%2BFHxJTk5uILn8aln3UYq6lUVUsE1LvyAGydjqg3KVhW3FYAAwVs6wl9p2sMooxyCht4DKnT1Z%2FVRs4uLSVQtac%2FuYgZ%2FmOKAvm5GXzd1QGLtrm1FkR6PEsybODinvOhDGxxyPpZBtTWCpMbpk6c%2BUfTr8%2BiYYtwlmRZWP%2BZo4hZCGuuh%2Ff8yoRVw%3D&df=1&fta=eNot0EtywyAMBuC7sMiahwEhJoteoFfIyIBTT52Gie0k00zuXmF39wkEiJ%2FQ42tGQLHeptOdpllELrl%2BTkd1yPNxuaKKk0IINk4alXYQ84hxWvB3rHEe8swNdUEZLxV%2F1ku5jSnWlevvB37cEuUSr%2FOI%2BlDrepTt%2Fg5FpXMRceSjMxoUY94e1i6gUF3qetPZJ0Or3kpG38uBoIE66bsNRnu9QQO4hmBg39JdorCDXL8DHOxwJjMoKxlKQ1JgYIcDauitsYZhPFHaVkB56Hao%2FbgvKShG8H2GtgKFm9qoQLIU3yDtkBp8UUW2Ub2jnHlUwy%2BG7TteD660e7zsaZvHDVKq1myhBGtaKooDWq6V8nyays95%2BWrBSd7gsC70PLUsOb6MukWIgh4ifv7zLiKhxNf7%2FQfozo7k&fta_ind=22&fs=1)
Is this any good?
I have two High Tech cabinets, although with other chassis then the one on the picture. I wonder if there is any wiring with the one that you show, I don’t see any, nor the wire with the suction cup. I do see one cut orange wire at the top of the Flyback transformer. And has the monitor a lot of screenburn? You need to ask this to the seller. And of course you will not be able to test it on forehand. All in all I wouldn’t buy it I suppose.
A good alternative is of course a regular CRT TV. If you get a model with a correct size and a RGB output, you will have true Arcade quality, of course combined with a modded VGA > RGB Scart cable (a few people here know hotw to make them) and soft 15khz: http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/wiki/Custom_display_modes_(Windows)_-_Soft-15khz
CRT TV’s can still be found on a lot of places.
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I did ask Kate (his wife?) about that but her response was that they dont do that anymore thanks to the insurance. But id did made sure that total amount wasn't over 150 dollar.
-20 euro = no taxes
-150 euro = 16% import taxes
+150 euro = 16% import 19% normal taxes
I just checked the track and trace , it already in the Netherlands but i doubt it i will get it before Friday...
Thank!! So what i should be looking for is a 19 inch CRT TV (not a pc monitor) with a scart exit. Marktplaats seems to be a fine place to search for a tv like that..
@André
I have a question that seems to be for you only because your the "fluorescent light guy" ;) is there anything special i need to take in for account with the lighting of my marquee?
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Hi Falcon,
Firstly, i will come back to you about the exact measurements of the corner top sidepanel / marquee area.
And about a fluorescent light, you can just but one from Gamma or Praxis that fits in.
I won't buy a led or anything, but a real tube that works on 220 volts.
You will probably need a (stekkerverdeeldoos? / outlet divider?) anyway, since you need 220 for the TV, for the PC, maybe a speakerset.
So you can plug it right it.
The tube i bought (50/55 cm in width i guess and priced at about 17 euro's) works perfectly. Light is really bright but not to bright, and evenly emited.
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Its been a while but im still working on my cab! I do have a few questions that i hope some of you can answer.
I got all my stuff in from mike (plus a second order because i forgot some stuff..) And i still need to order my artwork!
The reason is that Im afraid the original cp, beezel and marquee wont fit because of jakobud cabinet i build...should i need to order them specially from gameongraphics?
And i have been looking for the awser but i cant seem to figure out what this part is called and where i can order it... Any idea?
(http://img576.imageshack.us/img576/7644/whatwu.jpg)
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Well still working on the cabinet!
Its been a while but progress is (slowly) coming along.
Yesterday i finished the back of my cab. All fits nice and snugly, just need to secure them into place with some L brackets a some woodglue.
(http://a.imageshack.us/img205/5269/p1010334klein.jpg)
(http://a.imageshack.us/img827/2127/p1010339klein.jpg)
(http://a.imageshack.us/img132/9422/p1010338klein.jpg)
I hope to finish the woord work on the cabinet this week. The Marquee board is cut but i cant place it in there yet, need to lay the cabinet down before i bolt every thing down. Just need to cut the tryangle for the CP, the CP and the Marquee light board!
(http://a.imageshack.us/img827/2127/p1010339klein.jpg)
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hey nice build... I will be attempting something similar soon :shock:
just wondered if you could help me with some of the parts you ordered from MikesArcade.... I live in the UK so just want a few more snaps of a couple of parts to see if theres something I can source more local to the UK.
Could you help me out?
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Of course no problem.
Well the only parts i can think of you can save on are the buttons, Latches and the CP retainers and a couple of bolts.But all those are very cheap and would be a wast to save on.
In fact if you want to start a project like this: Dont try to cut down on stuff. You can look around where the parts are cheapest. But don't try to cut corners with the details, those are the things that matter in the end!
My advice: look around and try to be cheaper off with stuff, but try the cheap your way out of a project
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I think Im going to need to buy the parts from Mike's Arcade...
just some better pictures of what the marquee retainers (both) look like... and the lower bezel retainer....
any pictures will be of help :)
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Hi Nintendoid, I too am (still) building a scratch build DK cabinet. Here's a pic of how I mounted the bezel with an aluminium strip from the DIY store, since I don't think you can find the lower bezel retainer anywhere online (And Mike doesn't have them as far as I know).
I bought a "draught excluder" (tochtstrip in dutch, thanks google) and removed the rubber part so I have just an aluminium strip left which I can slide the bezel bottom into.
Spraypaint black and you are done. :)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/35165513@N04/4831632904
(I can't get the image appear in this post? :()
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Pretty big update i guess.
Last month i got all my artwork in! Marquee,Beezel and CP from Scott and the side art from QuarterArcade. I was really happy with the result! And Scott helpt me out with the import tax problem ;)
(http://a.imageshack.us/img714/4971/p1010400klein.jpg)
(http://a.imageshack.us/img833/5251/p1010407klein.jpg)
(http://a.imageshack.us/img440/2210/p1010405klein.jpg)
I also made the t-molding slots. A HUGE thanks to Joeks for lending me the bit for my router to do so! I would never succeed without his help at that point!
(http://a.imageshack.us/img713/9859/p1010382klein.jpg)
(http://a.imageshack.us/img843/7663/p1010392klein.jpg)
Then finally cut the hole for my coin door! It fits perfectly, i dont need glue or bolts to hold it in place. I also cut out some admin buttons for controlling Mame.
(http://a.imageshack.us/img163/9899/p1010544klein.jpg)
(http://a.imageshack.us/img833/292/p1010573klein.jpg)
Then yesterday i finally fixed the light in the cabinet. The strangest thing happened the i first l saw the marquee, i really was proud of myself :). I hope the make final adjustment this weekend and get the first layer of primer on (Histor, MDF grondverf)
(http://a.imageshack.us/img838/5843/p1010596klein.jpg)
(http://a.imageshack.us/img543/258/p1010585klein.jpg)
(http://a.imageshack.us/img543/9252/p1010592klein.jpg)
Edit:
I still need to fix this part into place...anybody got a clue on how and where?
(http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/9428/tkgfaretainer2.jpg)
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Looking great !
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Wow!!! Looks super dude!
Although I first have to restore another cab seeing you build this and have the flat white t-mold underway makes my fingers itchy to first start with another build :)
Looking forward to see the rest of the build, you're a much better photo documentary maker then me!
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i think it's looking great and although this is probably taking longer than you had expected, it will be totally worthwhile in the end. isn't it just great to be proud of yourself? 8)
are you having any issues with the jakobud plans being inaccurate and the order parts not fitting because of that?
one thing i noticed (and some might say i'm being too anal about it): on the following pick there's a dip in the wood right underneath the speaker grill (or is it ventilation?). if i were you, i'd fill that dip up before painting the cab, because since this at the very front of the cab, you will clearly see this and always be unhappy with that error. you've gone through all that trouble: fill it up! :P
(http://a.imageshack.us/img713/9859/p1010382klein.jpg)
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yeah, i noticed that too, you are right Ully, but also you are anal, and we all know that ;D
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It's very impressive... At this point I'm sure you can feel the 'Arcade Life Style' excitation... Congratulation :)
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Huh, a vinyl DK CPO ??
You do know the original was a plexi, right ?
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Huh, a vinyl DK CPO ??
You do know the original was a plexi, right ?
+1
here a nice one for 40$:
http://www.arcadeshop.com/pics/donkey-kong-cpo.jpg
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Huh, a vinyl DK CPO ??
You do know the original was a plexi, right ?
No i didnt! I thought original it was a paper under a piece of plexiglass. Thats why im so intressed in the CP of Timepilot!
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i think it's looking great and although this is probably taking longer than you had expected, it will be totally worthwhile in the end. isn't it just great to be proud of yourself? 8)
are you having any issues with the jakobud plans being inaccurate and the order parts not fitting because of that?
one thing i noticed (and some might say i'm being too anal about it): on the following pick there's a dip in the wood right underneath the speaker grill (or is it ventilation?). if i were you, i'd fill that dip up before painting the cab, because since this at the very front of the cab, you will clearly see this and always be unhappy with that error. you've gone through all that trouble: fill it up! :P
Thanks! I fix that little bump in the front.
Yeah its taking me way longer then i thought, but im loving every second of it!
Well the only issue i have so far is that i dont think i have enough T-molding and the marquee retainers are a bit small. The cabinet is 57,3 wide so its a bit to big.
First layer of primer, seconde coat is drying as we speak...i think it will need a third coat.
IMG]http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/7751/p1010640klein.jpg[/IMG]
(http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/6909/p1010653klein.jpg)
(http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/6909/p1010653klein.jpg)
And a HUGE thanks to Level42,Joeks and Darthnuno (even if he doesn't get it;D). I got a little road trip today to Den Haag to get this beautiful perfect match paint!
(http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/1374/p1010654klein.jpg)
(http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/7466/p1010655klein.jpg)
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Hey looking good Falcon!
Good job so far. The cabinet is really taking shape. The moment you started painting the mdf, it looks a lot nicer is it?
I have just finished painting my coin door and mechs for the final time (even though STILL not really satisfied :) )
Need to install it and then get my DK pcb running. Having troubles with that btw!
Maybe someone can help me test the 2-board pcb i got from Mikesarcade? Maybe Level42 or Ckong?
I only hear the boot-up sound, no display whatsoever.. No coin-sound.
If the pcb can be tested in a real Nintendo cabinet, that would be of great help.
PS. Falcon, you don't need the routerbit anymore i presume? :)
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And now the end is near.....
(http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/7812/p1010676klein.jpg)
(http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/988/p1010683klein.jpg)
(http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/1011/p1010680klein.jpg)
(http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/109/p1010679klein.jpg)
Just one more layer of red, and three layers of black. And then its sideart+ t-molding time!
@Joeks:
Almost! Just need to finish up the CP and cut the slot for the tmolding on there and im done with your bit. I will get it back to you ASAP!
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Hey Falcon! Looking really good! The red is incredible. Matches real nice with the red control panel overlay.
I didn't know you still had to cut the cp t-mold slot, take your time :)
One thing, don't you paint the inside of the speaker grill? It looks like that on your pics.
Now is not to late to still paint it, i think it looks a lot better painted red as well. A more finished look.
Good luck and have fun on the final stretch, your are almost there! Good job :)
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One thing, don't you paint the inside of the speaker grill? It looks like that on your pics.
Now is not to late to still paint it, i think it looks a lot better painted red as well. A more finished look.
Not original ! The original stuff is laminate so there is no red inside the speaker "grill".
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Thanks André!
I remember a discussion about painting the inside of the "grill" black.
So should it be black or jut wood?
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just wood if you like it original
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just wood if you like it original
as i've said before: sometimes you have to make the choice between keeping it close to the original or improving upon the original to make it look better. most of the time i prefer to go the second route - and that's what i'd do in this case: paint the inner part of the speaker grill in the same color as the board (black?). this is going to look so much better then!
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just wood if you like it original
as i've said before: sometimes you have to make the choice between keeping it close to the original or improving upon the original to make it look better. most of the time i prefer to go the second route - and that's what i'd do in this case: paint the inner part of the speaker grill in the same color as the board (black?). this is going to look so much better then!
I totally disagree.
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i'd say, paint :)
Look, here someone who keeps it original and didn't paint the inside (www.donkeykongrestore.blogspot.com):
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_CXccc8RIW9I/SpaQo6hJYmI/AAAAAAAAB8A/jivt1xRZAHo/s1600/Side%2BArt%2B02.JPG)
Here, my cabinet (scratch build) and painted inside the grill:
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_FpoNMI8SwJY/Sm9S1ZtO3oI/AAAAAAAAAYA/qTSd4JcOMnw/s1600/DSC02869.JPG)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_FpoNMI8SwJY/Sn8E3IoS0gI/AAAAAAAAAZY/e1BtU1FH9LY/s1600/DSC02933.JPG)
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way better with the grill painted inside. why do you disagree, andré? because you like the bare wood better or for original reasons?
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way better with the grill painted inside. why do you disagree, andré? because you like the bare wood better or for original reasons?
Because it's original.
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Because it's original.
well, it's no longer original as soon as do work on a cab, let this be applying replacement sideart or filling holes. for me it is "how can i make a cab look good?", even if this means making minor changes, for example i've never understood the placement of the DK instruction sticker or the position of the dragon's lair sideart - both of them look just horrible in their original position!
but each to his own, how boring would this hobby be without a little controversy?
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Difficult decision but I'll also leave my DK grill unpainted. Although a painted one looks (way) better I think it's more important to restore the cabinet back to his original state. But that's just my opinion..
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As I said, if the cab has to look like an original then don't paint the speaker grill (obvious this is to be preferred).
But this is different, the cab is going to be a very nice Mame cab which looks like a DK cab from the outside. But there will be extra buttons on the bottom of the CP to control Mame and there will be a PC in it. So in this case it doesn't matter if the grill is painted or wood, it's just a matter of taste of falcon NL (I would still say to leave it wood :) ).
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Why an extra button? Isn't possible to wire the cabinet so you can make use of the player 1 and 2 button as extra buttons?
Just like lizard lick jamma to pacman adaptor?
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Because it's original.
I think the inside of the grill is just wood in the original, because the original is not painted, it is some kind of laminate.
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While browsing this forum once again (I must have seen all build topics already 3 times now ;D) for building inspiration I noticed this thread. Did you already finish this cab, falcon?
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Sadly not :( I have been way to busy with my internship so progress is really slow, but since summer is finally here for me im starting this back up!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hv9P0Ir8c5I&feature=channel_video_title
I painted the inside of the cabinet black, finally installed the complete CP, got my ipac and added the side art. Somewhere in January i had my dad pick up my monitor from Gyruss (Long overdue Thank you) that he had in storage for me and its been safe and dry in my workshop ever since. Got a nice computer and finally installed Mame/Mala on it with a sweet frond end but i still need to wire my Ipac with the controls before i can play.
Since im here i have a question: for installing my monitor in my cabinet i need to add support beams to hold it.Im looking for the degree that these beams should have. By looking at pictures would say something roughly like 40° degrees, but im not sure...can anybody help me?